Subwoofers cut out while driving but amp LED light is still on...
I have 2 ten inch kenwood subwoofers hooked up to a 450 mono Alpine amp which is hooked up to a pioneer deck. i have had this system for a little over a year and never had a problem with amp or subs, subs do not appear to be blown but have not yet been tested on another amp. all fuses are ok and all wires have been traced. i just can't figure out what the problem is. does anyone have any suggestions becuase i don't have the money to bring it to get fixed and really want my subs back. thanks
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I'm using that Alpine right now for 2-12" subs and I have compared it to 6 or 7 other amps this month and most were 4 channel 150Watt/Channel Bridged to 300Watts x 2 and found the Alpine to be superior in both sound quality and loudness. The Alpine has also not turned off even with full volume for hours at a time, Very solid amp I was very surprised due to it's size!
I have installed car audio equipment for over 40 years on end off. End can see you don,t have the slightest clue what in the hell your doing, Speaker wire doe,s not have to do with it cuting out, It is because of the way you hooked your subs up, That no one can explain to guys like you in writeing,How to do it properly, Number 1, That amp is 2( OHM) Stable, You should be useing 2 (OHM) subs on it,Not 4 (OHM) subs, Take it to some one that no what in the (Hell) There doing (Before) you fry your amp.
Are you referring to something like this, using two different amps? It is a mono amp, meaning there's one amp in the box. "KAC-9105D also has a Dual Mono Drive connection that allows you to strap two KAC-9105D amps together to power a single subwoofer."Quoted fromhttp://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Amplifiers/KAC-9105D
Here's a link to a page out of the Yamaha Sound Reinforcement book. the top shows a stereo amp (1 box, two different amps inside) hooked up to drive two different speakers, which is known as 'stereo' mode.It then shows the two amps hooked to the opposite sides of the same speaker, which is known as 'bridge' mode.http://books57.net/ampOuts.gif
The "CUR" display means that the amp is drawing excessive current and the protection circuit is activating. Too low impedance or shorted speakers will cause the amp to draw excessive current.
The Alpine V12 is a Class D mono amp with only one set of speaker outputs. All versions, M301, M501, and M1001 are only stable to 2ohms. Assuming that all 6 of your connected subwoofers and speakers are 4ohm and they're all connected in parallel, the amp sees a .67 ohm load, far below it's rated impedance.
When brand new, the amp could probably operate at low to moderate volume levels without drawing excessive current. But as electronic components age, their tolerances change and they become less able to withstand excessive current or mismatched impedances.
I'd get a 4-channel amp and drive the 4" speakers off the front channels and the 6X9's off the rear channels. And just power the subs off the V12 making sure that they are connected to show a minimum load of 2ohms.
You are going to want to make sure all your power wires and grounds are 4 gauge as well as the wire leads to and from the capacitor-4 gauge also. make sure you have a very good ground - the power wire from the battery should hit a distribution block-from the dist. block a 4 gauge should go to the capacitor another 4 gauge to the mono amp and another to the 4 channel amp -every component should have a good solid ground even if you have to bust out a grinder and a drill and some self tapping sheet metal screws and go nuts on it- see if that helps you
That amplifier is 900W x 1 @ 2ohms.
If your subs are 4ohm SVC wired Parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, each sub will only see 1/2 of the rated power. (450W ea.)
Your gain (sensitivity) setting should be between 75% and 85% to max. You will be fine.