Question about LG LFC23760 Bottom Freezer Commercial French Door Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your relay that is attached to the compressor is going bad. It is called a PTC relay. The clicking sound is a relay called PTC relay. You need to replace it. First be sure to unplug frig. Remove the cardboard cover that covers most backs of the frig units. Remove the plastic cover that is on the side of compressor. It is held on with a metal clip. Now you should be able to see the relay pry the relay straight off. note the wiring and position of relay. Only three prongs on compressor. Go to a parts house for appliance's and with your make and model number should be able to get a new one. Let me know if you need any more help. ken
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. Check for these: Evaporator coils You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
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Posted on Mar 16, 2009
Evaporator coils iced up- either bad bi-metal thermostat,heater or board.Check resistance on thermostat/heating element.If reading resistance try and jump board into defrost mode by jumper wire from l-1 to defrost lead.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
There is whats called a defrost termination sensor in behind the back panel of the freezer it has failed & needs to be replaced.Very common problem in electronic fridge's.
Posted on Feb 22, 2011
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