Question about Maytag MTB2156GES Top Freezer Refrigerator
I have replaced both the defrost thermostat and the heating element with exact part # replacements I still do not hear any crackling like I use to. The timer does appear to be working correctly, when I turn it to the off cycle it does take a few minutes before you hear the compressor kick back in. The freezer works fine but I did have an issue with the refrigerator getting warm. I had to defrost the freezer coil and this is the reason I replaced the parts considering the age. Thanks Joe
I see you did not replace the=> 68233-3 Defrost Timer I guess the question is have you given the freezer time to accumulate frost buildup? Let me know how long you have had to wait for frost buildup to cause cooling problems again. The=> 68233-3 Defrost Timer
is a 10 hour defrost timer so you should be getting defrost every ten hours. Let me know and I will try to help, Thanks Sea Breeze
Posted on Dec 05, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you jumped the defrost board and it went into defrost then that board is bad. I assume by "freezes up" you are talking about the evaporator is frosting up? That defrost board puts it into defrost automatically. If you have to jump it to get it go into defrost then the board is not doing its job.
Posted on Nov 16, 2007
un-plug fridge let defrost fully clean vents look for an obstruction in vents at back of freezer, usually something resembling syrup. Vacum under and back of fridge. plug back in check temp after one day.
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
All frost-free refrigerator-freezers have a thing in the system called a Defrost Timer. The thing is a little clock of sorts that tracks accumulated running time. Every 8 hours of run time the thing cycles through a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is necessitated by the humidity that forms ice crystals on the freezing coils, if the frost is not eradicated it can build up to the point where no air flows over the coils to chill the inside of the box. (it may keep the freezer cold but no air goes to the fridge part)The Defrost timer in all boxes fails eventually from old age. When that happens, the coils frost over until they become pretty much just a solid block of ice. Most timers are located on the front of the machine, behind that removable grille under the door. The timer has a round hollow shaft through it, and can be turned with a screwdriver. If the compressor is running, give the shaft a slow twist until a click is heard. The compressor will stop. Give the fridge an hour to defrost the coils, and check it to see if it took off running. If an hour has passed ans the fridge hasn't restarted, advance the timer again to start. Sometimes the nudge will make the timer run for a while. If this is the case, the unit will chill, and buy you some time to get it fixed. If the timer does not run, you can repeat the process daily until you get a replacement timer.
Posted on May 06, 2009
You have to remove the rear panel in the freezer compartment. The thermostat is clipped to the top of the cooling coil. Fairly simple job.
Here is a picture of one style..
Posted on May 20, 2010
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When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts
prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer
turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then
redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it
clockwise until you hear it click.
One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the
compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which
means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up
and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when
the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the
refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes
called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold
control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same
but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
Test the heating element for
continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to
the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should
display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of
different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be
certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating
element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to
the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on
= bad defrost heater.
Some newer refrigerators have been
using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the
defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power
to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the
compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This
adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if
the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive
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