Question about Maytag MTB2156GES Top Freezer Refrigerator

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"maytag mtb2156dea refrigerator" How do you set it in defrost mode? I have replaced both the defrost thermostat and the heating element with exact part # re placements I still do not hear any cracklin

I have replaced both the defrost thermostat and the heating element with exact part # replacements I still do not hear any crackling like I use to. The timer does appear to be working correctly, when I turn it to the off cycle it does take a few minutes before you hear the compressor kick back in. The freezer works fine but I did have an issue with the refrigerator getting warm. I had to defrost the freezer coil and this is the reason I replaced the parts considering the age. Thanks Joe

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  • Maytag Master
  • 4,654 Answers

I see you did not replace the=> 68233-3 Defrost Timer I guess the question is have you given the freezer time to accumulate frost buildup? Let me know how long you have had to wait for frost buildup to cause cooling problems again. The=> 68233-3 Defrost Timer

is a 10 hour defrost timer so you should be getting defrost every ten hours. Let me know and I will try to help, Thanks Sea Breeze

Posted on Dec 05, 2012

Testimonial: "Thanks for your help John Everything is good."

  • 1 more comment 
  • Joe King Dec 08, 2012

    Thanks for you help, it's been 3 days now since I install both the defrost t/stat and element I still have not heard the usual crackling while defrosting and I do see through the vents in the back of the freezer that ice is accumulating. Is the a way to bench test the defrost timer? Thanks for your help in advance.Joe

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Dec 08, 2012

    About the best way to test the defrost timer and the defrost circuit is with a amp meter with a Wall Plug Adapter WPA-3. http://www.powermeterstore.com/p676/wall...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Dec 08, 2012

    The refrigerator will produce its highest amperage while in defrost Thanks JT

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag MSD2356 Freezer frosts up quickly, fridge warm

If you jumped the defrost board and it went into defrost then that board is bad. I assume by "freezes up" you are talking about the evaporator is frosting up? That defrost board puts it into defrost automatically. If you have to jump it to get it go into defrost then the board is not doing its job.

Posted on Nov 16, 2007

scott gibson
  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer cold but not frig. section

un-plug fridge let defrost fully clean vents look for an obstruction in vents at back of freezer, usually something resembling syrup. Vacum under and back of fridge. plug back in check temp after one day.

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

Bat1956
  • 585 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator started getting warm, but the freezer

All frost-free refrigerator-freezers have a thing in the system called a Defrost Timer. The thing is a little clock of sorts that tracks accumulated running time. Every 8 hours of run time the thing cycles through a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is necessitated by the humidity that forms ice crystals on the freezing coils, if the frost is not eradicated it can build up to the point where no air flows over the coils to chill the inside of the box. (it may keep the freezer cold but no air goes to the fridge part)The Defrost timer in all boxes fails eventually from old age. When that happens, the coils frost over until they become pretty much just a solid block of ice. Most timers are located on the front of the machine, behind that removable grille under the door. The timer has a round hollow shaft through it, and can be turned with a screwdriver. If the compressor is running, give the shaft a slow twist until a click is heard. The compressor will stop. Give the fridge an hour to defrost the coils, and check it to see if it took off running. If an hour has passed ans the fridge hasn't restarted, advance the timer again to start. Sometimes the nudge will make the timer run for a while. If this is the case, the unit will chill, and buy you some time to get it fixed. If the timer does not run, you can repeat the process daily until you get a replacement timer.

Posted on May 06, 2009

  • 572 Answers

SOURCE: HAve a MAytag MZD2766GEQ Refrigerator. It is

the defrost timer. its under the control panel in the fridge section

Posted on Feb 11, 2010

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: How do I replace a defrost thermostat on a Maytag MBB2256GES?

Good day,
You have to remove the rear panel in the freezer compartment. The thermostat is clipped to the top of the cooling coil. Fairly simple job.
Here is a picture of one style..


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Posted on May 20, 2010

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1 Answer

Maytag 51105349JA refrigerator top freezer snowing up and won't stop running


Defrost thermostat, defrost timer or defrost heating element is bad. Because of that the evaporator is clogged with ice and the cold air cannot get to the fresh food section. Therefore the thermostat control doesn't get cold enough to turn off the compressor. On the other hand the temperature thermostat may be bad and stuck inn the on position causing the ref to operate continuously thereby defeating the defrost cycle. Uplug the ref and allow it to thaw completely. (24hours). Then while its quiet... turn the thermostat to OFF or 0 and then to the coldest setting and listen for a click sound. No click sound means bad thermostat. Later after thawing plug in refrigerator and observe function after 2 hours and check for cold air flow to the fresh food section. If the refrigerator appears to be okay... the problem is a defrost issue. Most typically a defrost thermostat is bad, but when behind the freezer panel is a good time to perform an ohm/ continuity check on the defrost heating element.

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Maytag MSD2651KES the coils are iced over, both the freezer and the fridge are no longer cold. This is the third time in 3 years this has happened, having to replace the Defrost Thermostat and the Defrost...


It could be a faulty defrost heating element or a bad terminal connection somewhere in the defrost wiring circuit. Make sure the doors seal properly. ie. no gaps between the door seals and the unit when the doors are closed. Door seal leaks can cause coil icing. If okay, the heating element is not working properly (heating up) during the defrost cycle. ie. The ice on the coils never melts off the evaporator coils.

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Freezer drain may be blocked. Freezer not working effeciently the freezer always icing up


. If the freezer is always icing up , you probably have the problem in your defroster circuit . The refrigerator cycles once every six to eight hours into the defrost mode . This is controlled by the defrost timer. when in this mode , a heating element located close to the evaporator heats up and melts the ice. This heating element will heat up any ice enough to melt It and drain out of the unit. I would check this first .

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Frigidaire PLHS269ZDB9 is not getting cold enough to freeze or make ice. I took off the panel , there is an ice block on the thermostat to the evaporator. trying to defrost.


When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor


Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.



Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.

*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.



Defrost heater:

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.


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Some newer refrigerators have been using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive defrost board.


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The defrost circuit in you freezer has failed that is why you have to defrost the coils. The defrost circuit consists of the heater element, the defrost thermostat and the control module. The control module turns off the compressor and powers up the heating element to melt the ice on the coil, after the coil reaches 40 deg F the thermostat cuts off power to the heater. The heating element and thermostat is mounted to the coil. If you have a multimeter and know how to use one, you can check the thermostat and heater. You can check the heating element with a multimeter to see if it has electrically opened. If it has then you will need to replace it. Check also the thermostat, it should be in series with the heater. It should read close to 0 ohms if it is freezing and read infinite ohms if the temperature is above 40F. If the thermostat and heater check out, the problem might be with the control module.

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That model has what is called a adaptive defrost on it this fails very often it is located inside the ref under the control panel, The only other possible cause would be a defrost thermostat, this is located near the heater.

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Adaptive Defrost Control Bad?


If there is no continuity on the heating element, it is BAD. Replace the heater and the defrost thermostat at the same time.

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1 Answer

Why is my Amana Fridge (Model number SSD522T) not defrosting and fan only works sometimes?


When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor
 
Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.
 
 
Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode. 
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
 
 
Defrost heater:
Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.
 

Jan 06, 2009 | Refrigerators

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