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Samsing 50 inch Plasma- Main Board BN94-01658A Problem

I have been trying to troubleshoot the clicking sound and distorted picture during the startup which eventually goes away after a few minutes and TV works fine after. I tested out the power supply board and the voltages its outputting are fine. I singled out the problem to be with the main board (board with all the inputs). Moreover, I noticed that if I heat up the black heatsink sink on the main board (BN94-01658A) with a hand dryer, TV turns on just fine. I am stuck at this point and dont know how to fix it. Any input? Replacing the main board is an option but I cannot find one for less than $200.

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  • Ibadat Dec 05, 2012

    I was able to fix the problem by reflowing the main board. Those who have similar problem, before you replace the main board try to reflow it .There are tutorial on youtube on how to use kitchen oven to reflow motherboard of laptops. You can use the same procedure. I heated it for about 8 mins at 385 degrees F / 200 C and allowed it to naturaly cool.

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Its either bit the bullet or buy a new set here--you are going to have to try that board to see if it cures it or not.

Where did you price the board?

The main board should have a number of large flatpack chips so that price may be ok, where did you get the price?

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

  • 1 more comment 
  • Ibadat Dec 05, 2012

    http://www.tvserviceparts.com/ has one for $190. Its out of stock everywhere else. I only want to replace it after exhausting all my options of fixing the current board. What I do not understand is why does heating up the chip solve the problem? Are they are any bad circuits inside the chip? Would it help to reflow the chip?

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Dec 05, 2012

    The explanation is rather simple---not enough heat sink to keep the part cool or the issue is pins on the chip lifting a bit with heat and cold--I had a different set with same issue and a mini fan installed kept it working--heat or cold

  • Ibadat Dec 05, 2012

    I reflowed the board using kitchen oven and its fixed now.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Removed all inputs to main

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Zenith-P42W34-TVs-manual/id/277ci358/t/2/
http://www.zenithservice.com/index_b2c.jsp
You did not indicate what the "Problem" is?
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.

Posted on Apr 01, 2010

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