Question about Audio Players & Recorders
Your powered sub entered protect mode (apparently permanent) as a result of being overloaded.
Posted on Apr 17, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi There, There are 3 internal fuses to check that clip onto the main amp board. You can access them by undoing the two screws that are on the top and the bottom of the sub. They have flat large heads and you will need a hex key to unscrew them. If it is one of the fuses that has gone it will either be discoloured as in burnt or you will see the metal inside has split. Simply replace these with a new fuse and hey presto you should be back up and running. You might also want to check that none of the push on cable ends have dropped off fom the board as this may also stop connection going through. If you need any parts for the sub or fuses then www.LondonSpeakerShop.com will be able to supply them (that is if you're in the UK). Hope this helps. Grant (from www.LondonSpeakerHire.com)
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
When it goes off, try pressing gently on the speaker membrane (you'll probably need to remove the protective mesh to do that).
If the speaker comes on for an instant or so when you press the membrane, then the cause is a broken braid wire at the back of the speaker (it goes from the connection terminal on the speaker itself to the speaker cone where it is connected to the speaker coil wire and glued to the cone to keep it firmly in place).
If this turns out to be the case, the braid can be resoldered at the point where it is damaged / broken (you need good soldering skills to do it, also the braid needs to be cleaned well which is a bit tricky because of its structure, and solder won't stick to it well if it's not clean).
The solder point should be firm, but as small and short as possible because the braid needs to remain flexible at all times since it moves when the speaker is operating.
An alternative to braid resoldering is to replace the speaker, but there may be speaker repair shops around where you can get it fixed.
The problem may as well be something else, the above is just one of the things that you can check and possibly fix by yourself.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
Testimonial: "sounds feasible will look into that soon altho away for some weeks yet so cant try immediatly TS"
Open it up and see what is in there! You might find a fuse blown. It might have just blown, without a fault, if you are lucky. If not check out the part numbers on the amp board. All semiconductors numbers, then put the numbers into google. You will soon find out if they are obtainable!
Posted on Jan 20, 2010
SOURCE: hello there i have a
The most common cause of this is a blown horn. A replacement can be ordered from Mackie directly. Remove the screws that hold the plastic horn in place. At the rear of this part will be the tweeter assembly that unscrews from the horn. This needs to be replaced.
Another possibility is that the tweeter driver has broken from the horn itself and is inside the cabinet. Remove the horn and you may find that the aluminum part has broken. Replace the horn which comes with that part and you should be fine.
Posted on Jan 12, 2011
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