Question about Washing Machines
It washes and gets to about 10 minutes and gives me the dc code. I move stuff around and try it again and it sounds like it is trying to spin and then stops. It drains fine and only leaves a couple gallons of water. How do I know what to look for to fix it?
The DC error indicates the control determined the basket was out of balance and thus would not ramp up to a full speed spin. It is possible the noise from the motor is also causing drag and giving the board the impression that the basket is not moving freely. What is the model number?
Posted on Dec 04, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
Thank you for the machine model number confirmation. Who ever offered up the clutch as a possible issue has a clue. Could be the Tub Displacement Sensor but from my experience 10 times out of 10 it’s the clutch. I’ll post this info as a solution, the next question is read the info look at the Service manual and see if you or someone you know that is handy can drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect. They can then evaluate the clutch to see if it’s what I call a soft failure, clean up and re-lube of the Clutch roller bearings. If the clutch roller bearings can be cleaned up and re-lubed and the clutch spring is not broken then you could be back in service today. If you call in a repair service and they have a clue and don’t shotgun parts into the machine the cost could be around $300+ for the clutch and labor. They won’t clean up and re-lube the clutch bearings. Please See this post for clutch maintenance it’s a recent post. I have some Pic’s that show the clutch and a replacement new clutch recommendation if it comes to that. I’m an owner of the machine and can offer phone support if you need. You can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I can forward you a phone number. Post back anytime and I or someone will be there to help, I hope you can tolerate the down time, so many of these machines are junked for fix that is easy for the average DIY’er. Rich
I'll paste in the basic steps to follow;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual and Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
If your machine is FAV6800AW or FAV9800AW the dc/UC errors are caused by a clutch malfunction. Your machine is shutting down with those errors so your Tub Displacement Sensor is working as designed.
Fix the Clutch malfunction and you can wash a single sock or a load of blue jeans and you will not take the dc or UC unbalance errors. See this post for the fix.
Post back if you have questions or need help.
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
Failing at the 11 minute mark is the start of Spin Cycle and is key for clutch malfunction diagnosis see this post for a technicial description. The great folks at Maytag Eng. even hang out there dirty laundry in the Service Manual for the issue of a poor clutch design…. No pun intended….sure :). I could be in left field with my assumptions I’ve got to get my clutch to fail again due to those nasty sticky one-way roller clutches to be 100% dead on.
I agree with the other forum member solution, I own the machine and I feel this could be a clutch issue also. Check out the Tub Displacement Sensor with this check and make sure the transitions change the display from UC (unbalance closed) normal TDS position to UO to (unbalance open). Here is the test TDS Troubleshooting. You don’t need to disconnect the TDS from the Washer frame as I did just do the thru the lid check. Just make sure you pull and push down the tub as I described to make the tub excursions to test the Tub Displacement Sensor. I have not measured at CONN-P3 pin 11 to Control Board common but I believe a DVM would indicate apx +3VDC to +1.5VDC for the excursion limits to produce UC/UO to the LED display.
Here is the Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
If you are a DIY’er or have someone in the family with very basic mechanical skill sets take a look at this post and see if they can follow the clutch maint/repair/replacement process and save yourself some $money$. I would do this just to inspect the roller clutches in the clutch pulley for signs of a tub seal leak (slight to heavy rust). It’s a tight work area but I have hand very solid feedback from many forum members on this board and FIXITNOW.com for this step by step process.
The repair person did nothing wrong if he did not reseat the clutch properly on installation it would have spun off. I would drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect the roller clutches in the clutch hub and if your machine has the upper one-way roller clutch ring . How long has it been since your last clutch repair? I would not spend more than $60 a clutch pulley replacement part. This clutch pulley will work for all series FAV6800AW and FAV9800AW machines. Appliancezone.com keeps changing the link but here is the p/n punch it in their search box…. 25001169 …..
A repair tech that knows what he is doing shouldn’t spend more than 30 minutes in the house to pull the front cover off the machine remove the old clutch and install the new one. Some of the charges I see folks paying for a clutch replacement are out in left field. I hope you or a family member/friend can take this on.
Post back if you have questions or need help. Good Luck Rich
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
See this post Clutch Fix if you want to DIY I will help you.
Post back if you have questions……..Rich
Posted on May 23, 2010
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