Question about Car Audio & Video
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Car Audio Problems-Amp cuts out
No the reson for the amp overheating is do to the OHM ratting that you have the sub if to have the both wired up then just wire one up and that will give you the OHM ratting that your amp is ratted for the way that you might have it is the way that we wire them for coms. where it is on for 30sec and no more. if you would like more help let me know.
Posted on Oct 25, 2007
depends on the amplifier if you have a mono block amp or a regular 2 output amp if it is 2 output make sure to bridge and that means the negative to one output and positive to the other output then need to find out the rms on the speaker. the amp should have the ability to adjust it you might want to get a digital multimeter set it to watts and make sure you only set it to the RMS of the speaker because max handling should be the 1800 and usually the RMS is half the max so it should be 900 w again it depends on the amp and were the adjusting knob is and or if it has one
Posted on Nov 05, 2008
Those MOFO-15's have dual 1ω voice coils. So the only way you can get 2 of them to present a 2ω load is to use 1 voice coil on each one with the two of them wired in series. Using both voice coils, you can get a 1/4ω load by wiring the voice coils in parallel and then wiring the subs themselves in parallel. You'll get a 1ω load with the voice coils in series and then parallel the subs. Or you'll get a 4ω load with both the voice coils and the subs in series.
Here's a link to Power Acoustik's PDF for the MOFO's. I recommend that you check out the wiring diagrams on page 3.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
You need to remove the subs from the box in order to check the internal box wiring. First, make sure that the wire going from the nonworking sub terminals to the enclosure terminals is OK. Then check the "braided" leads on the back of the terminals going to the speaker cone. If the wiring all looks OK, remove the wires from the sub terminals, and use a multimeter set to the lowest ohm range and check the resistance across the subs terminals. You should read somewhere between 3-4 ohms. If the meter reads infinity (that is no reading at all), then the voice coil is open. If it "pegs" (reads "0"), the coil is shorted.
Either open or shorted means the voice coil is no longer working.
I could not find any replacement parts on Sony's support page, so it's most likely that they don't even repair these. They probably just replace the sub if it's under warranty, and if it's not under warranty, they probably recommend that you buy a new one.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
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