Question about Teledyne Laars HEAT EXCHANGER ASSEMBLY, DP-350 - 10403602

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Pilot light will go out a few times a day on mini therm II

I have in floor heating in lower level and forced air upstairs. I have to light the pilot light a few times a day. I've taken out what I think would be similar to a thermocouple and emery clothed it down. I cant remember for sure but I think I have had to do that before and it worked. Could it be that that part now needs to be replaced. Also yesterday it was going out more regularly so when I lit it the last time I left the cover off thinking I would need to light it again but it hasn't gone out since. 12 hours so far. Any help would be appreciated.

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  • Teledyne Laars Master
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Needs a new thermo coupler

Posted on Nov 06, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jgwhomeequip
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SOURCE: Pilot light wont stay lit

If this is a new item then you will need to let the gas run alittle bit longer. If this is a used item then it sounds like you are going to need to replace the flame sensor. You may have to even do it on the new item. But usually for the first start you willl need to hold the pilot down for about 1 minute to really let things heat up in there then when you release all will work

Posted on May 21, 2009

john224
  • 1378 Answers

SOURCE: pilot light won't stay on

Replace the pilot generator.

Posted on Jul 05, 2009

bill_48632
  • 149 Answers

SOURCE: Laars Lite 2 LG - pilot light will not stay lit.

It sounds like a thermocouple has gone bad. this is a very common problem with gas powered things ie; water heaters, furnaces, hot tubs. The telltale sign is when you release the pilot light button it won't stay lit. This is a safety feature and is relatively inexpensive and easy to repair.

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: my heaters pilot wont stay on and ive replaced the

Problem with the thermocoupler its not producing a minivolt of 250 plus that is needed to open the main gas valve

http://www.laarsman.co.uk

Miles

Posted on Jun 05, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Laars Mini-Therm II boiler that keeps

4.34

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

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Heater is not igniting


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
f there is no heat, check the electrical service panel for a burned fuse or tripped breaker. Relight the pilot light (see below). If there is not enough heat, adjust the burner air shutter (see below); and clean the burner ports (see below).
If the pilot light does not light or does not stay lit, clean the pilot orifice carefully with a toothpick, test the thermocouple and replace it if it is faulty (see below).
If the flame flickers, adjust the pilot (see below).
If there is an exploding sound when the burner ignites, adjust the pilot to a higher setting and clean the pilot orifice and the burner ports.
If the burner takes more than a few seconds to ignite, clean the pilot orifice and adjust the pilot light.
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If the air is too dry, wash or replace the evaporator pad if you have a humidifier; test the humidistat; and adjust the water-level float to raise the water level.
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I have a Danby DR401 that I got from a friend, but it won't remove any moisture from my home. The RH% is 79%, the unit is set to 35% and it's been running for 2 days with no moisture being...


There are 5 basic, but solvable reasons for what you described.Numbers 1 & 2, you have already addressed.

1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32-35%.

2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Turn unit OFF, & Unplug the
Unit, before removing to inspect & clean it, if necessary. If washed,
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3. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air
space around the entire unit.

4. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to
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5. Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.
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If none of the above solves the problem, it may be a case of the compressor needs to be recharged with refrigerant gas or that the humidity sensor has failed. These things usually occur in units that are 5 years old or older. It's rare in a unit younger than that. But, it can happen.

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Had three 50-gal American Standard water heaters installed Dec. 2009 Two upstairs in attic, one downstairs at ground level. Attic location used because heaters being replaced were up there. Upstairs...


Plumber is right.
Problem is not amount of air in attic. Problem is how hot the air is.
Oxygen molecules separate apart in very hot air and pilot light goes out since there is not enough oxygen density to support combustion.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-in-attic-800.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Attic-Ventilation-and-Pilot-Outage-in-Gas%20Water-Heaters.pdf

More ventilation is needed.
Plumber is not ventilating expert, and not responsible for attic ventilation that builder failed to install. Plumber should do a survey of location before installation to make sure gasoline vapors are not stored nearby, but summer attic ventilation is gray area until more general-public folks become aware of problem. Hotter summers temperatures will spread that information.

Hire local home center to install roof vents AND soffit vents.
Note: You also need soffit vents.
Remember a vent on the roof is like sucking air out of a coke bottle. The roof vent is no good unless air can also enter the attic from another vent located in the soffit.

Another solution is electric water heater for very hot locations.
Or install solar-assisted water heater.
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You'd be hard pressed to find a Fedders like yours. They've been out of business for several years.

There are several basic things that can cause what you described.

1. The humidity extraction level is improperly set. Lower the level to 32-35%

2. A dirty of clogged air intake filter. Turn the unit OFF unplug it and remove the filter for cleaning.

3. Obstructed air space. A dehumidifier requires a minimum of 12" clear air space around the entire
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5. The cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned.

Critical problems:
1 The humidity sensor has failed an needs to be replaced.

2.The compressor is low on refrigerant gas and needs to be recharged.

Sometimes the repairs (Time spent finding, the Parts & labor), if necessary, can cost almost as much or as much as a new unit, which would have a full warranty.

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Heat on bottom floor no heat on top floor


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