Question about Whirlpool EL02CCXP 19" Cold Pals Compact Refrigerator w/ 1.8 Cu. Ft. Capacity, Manual Defrost & Reve...
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Possibly freezer drain blocked causing ice build-up behind back freezer wall. This internal wall should be accessible by removing screws.Check fan motor in that area is working and also check that all door seals have no cracks or tears. This can cause ice build-up and motor to run longer than normally. benham's suggestion another possibility.Naturally have power off when dismantling anything.
Posted on Jan 11, 2008
Compressor won't run or it is "clicking' on and off: This normally could be a bad start relay and over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, condenser fan motor is not running or the compressor itself. To check the compressor properly you should test it with an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps ( see model/serial tag or the sticker on the compressor )...if the compressor is drawing too much current, this may be why it is shutting off. Check the model tag for proper amp rating. Some relays will be easy to notice the broken with them, they may be burnt. Example one, example two, example three. Some of these relays can be removed and give them a little shake, and if they rattle around inside the relay is likely bad. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok and you want to install areplacement start relay. You will need to find out which winding is which. You will need an ohm meter to determine the windings. First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding. Using the original style relay is always preferred, but using a general replacement can "get you by" if needed.
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
checklist: freezer fan running, compressor fan running, compressor running, any frost buildup on back wall of freezer. you may have to take a rag and touch the compressor to feel if its vibrating to see if its running unless you can hear it. please reply
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
SOURCE: center of side by side very hot
If by the center bar, you mean the divider between the freezer and fridge sections, then the heat you're feeling is the built-in condensation heaters designed to keep moisture from forming on the exterior of the unit. These heaters also help to keep moisture from freezing on the inside of the door edges and in between the sides of the unit as well.
It's a normal function of modern, frost-free refridgerators, Some brands/models have an "energy saver" switch inside the fridge section that you can use to turn off the extra edge heaters, if you aren't experiencing excessive condensation forming on the outside of the unit.
Not all the heaters can be turned off even with fridges that have an energy saver switch, as the manufacturers engineer/determine where and how many edge heaters are needed to get the best performance out of their products.
With an energy saver switch, you turn it "ON" to actually turn off the surface heaters, and turn it "OFF" to have the heaters run constantly. Thus having it "ON" saves the energy that would be used to keep the heaters very warm. Some manufacturers have added electronic sensors to regulate these heaters, but not all makers have done this.
You should also clean the coils to help the fridge run better. As far as getting to the coils to clean them, if you have a long narrow crevice tool with your vaccum, you can try to use that to get underneath the unit to carefully get the dust out. I found that if you move the unit out where you can get to all sides, makes it easier to remove any dust on the back and underside of the fridge. Don't foget that you might have to remove the lower, back access panel to get at the compressor/coil assembly.
Just unplug the fridge first to keep from ruining your spouse's vaccum tool in the cooling fan blade, like I did once and never he-ad the end of it! (Not to mention the noise it makes - brought her running to see what I was doing!)
If that isn't possible, you can always use the blower end of a vaccum to blow out the coils, but it's a messy proposition at best. I've used a swiffer taped with some duct tape onto a long, thin dowel to get quite a bit of the dust the vac couldn't $uck out - I prefer that to blowing dust out as it's less messy.
Provided your fridge and freezer are cooling properly, you shouldn't have any issues with the warm center compartment divider causing you any problems.
Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
Hi, there is a common fault with these side by side models, the electronics fail in many ways. The first sign of failure is either due to the compressor not working or the 'evaporator' (the cold bit) ices up and air can't pass through it to cool the freezer and fridge.
You can buy a kit to repair the boards for about £30 on ebay
Look for Whirlpool repair
An engineer would charge £200 +
Hope this helps
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
Testimonial: "Hey thank you for your help I will look into this kit. It may be a bit pricey but not as bad as a new fridge, or a repair guy! Thanks again!"
Tips for a great answer:
Depth Cab. Width Door Width Cab. Height Overall Height
Model size "A" "B" "C" "D" "E"
19 cu.ft. 30 3/4" 29 1/2" 29 3/4" 65 1/2" 66 1/4"
21 cu.ft. 29 3/8" 32 1/2" 32 3/4" 65 1/2" 66 1/4"
22 cu.ft. 30 3/4" 32 1/2" 32 3/4" 65 1/2" 66 1/4"
19 cu.ft. 31 1/2" 29 1/2" 30 1/8" 65 1/2" 66 1/2"
22 cu.ft. 31 1/2" 32 1/2" 33 1/8" 65 1/2" 66 1/2"
ARCHITECT® SERIES MODELS
19 cu.ft. 32 7/8" 29 1/2" 29 3/4" 65 1/2" 66 1/4"
22 cu.ft. 32 7/8" 32 1/2" 32 3/4" 65 1/2" 66 1/4"
Jul 08, 2015 | Whirlpool Refrigerators
Mar 09, 2011 | Whirlpool ED2FHGX Side by Side...
Jul 21, 2009 | Whirlpool Gold White-on-White 21.9 cu. ft....
Jun 12, 2009 | Whirlpool 21.0 cu. ft. Top Freezer...
May 05, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Mar 18, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Nov 19, 2007 | Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...
66 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: