a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Calculate it yourself: Place a straight edge across the top of the unit. Measure the height from the bottom of the tub to the bottom of the straight edge. Then measure the width of the inside center of the tub and take half that number. Then use the formula below to calculate it. For example. Height 30 inches, Width 28 inches (half of 28 = 14).
V = (3.1416 x (14 x 14) x 30)/1728
= (3.1416 x 196 x 30)/1728
= 10.70 cubic feet.
on the back of the washer are two spring clips fastened by hex head screws. remove the screws. Under the front of the top in each corner are spring clips. use a putty knife and locate the clips and press towards the back and lift that corner. it should come off. now do the same on the other corner. once the front is free, tilt the top up and pull up. the clips in back will release and you can rotate the top out of the way
If these are the clips i'm thinking of set the panel in place then grab the bottom of panel and stand up so that the panel is parallel to the floor. Apply pressure as you lower the bottom back down. The clips should slip into the slots, but sometimes it takes a couple of tries. When it's good you will know then replace bottom screws.
If this doesn't seem right give me the model number (the one on the machine) and we'll figure out what is right.
On some (older Maytag) machines the top is fastened with spring clips at the front corners and you can just pry the top up. It hinges along the back edge. On newer (Whirlpool) machines there are two screws at eh front bottom of the control panel. Remove them and lift and flip the control panel back. Then remove two large spring clips that hold the top to the back panel and lift the entire cabinet assemble off the base. Unplug the electrical connector between the cabinet top and control panel before lifting it off.
I fastened my wife's washer to the wall with heavy wire inserted into 4 pieces of rubber attached to the wall and the wash machine. Rubber stoppers about one inch in diameter are held in place on the back of the washer about four inches below the top with copper pipe fasteners used to attach pipe to wood. These are on the back near each side and the ones on the wall are in matching locations. I used a 4" wide board on the wall so the screws could go into the studs and the stoppers could go where they were needed without concern about studs. The two pieces of heavy wire (not easily bent by hand) is bent into a U shape with a flat bottom and short legs. The width of the U depends on how far your machine is from the wall.The wire legs 2 - 4" long are then inserted down into the rubber with the bottom of the U upwards. Wherever you drill to attach the stoppers on the machine be sure to avoid any wires or mechanical components and I attached them near the top for ease of removal for maintenance-- which should be seldom. This solution has held my machine in place quietly for the last seven + years.