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Frigidaire Range-ES510 rack in lower position keeps the door open- light on -using rck in upper position fine

When using a rack in the lower position the door will not shut enough for the light to go out. Pushing it helps- Problem is the bottom of the door needs to adjust further out- so door can close evenly from top to bottom. How do you adjust this

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Oven door just barely closes- light stays on

put a tea towel on both sides of the door [folded] down by the hinges then close door. gently push the door close try a few times with a little pressure.

Posted on Nov 23, 2007

SOURCE: gas range top burners too hot

Get the installation manual for your range, and find the part on adjusting the low heat for the burners. On my Whirlpool, I found there is an adjustment screw inside the control knob shaft of each burner. The manual says turn the burner on low, remove the knob, then turn this screw until the flames are 1/4" high. Super-easy, it took me 5 minutes to do. I am sure all ranges have similar adjustments, might be in different locations - check the manual.

Posted on Feb 19, 2008

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: Viking Range oven door does not close properly

sounds like the door hinges need replaced. order a part #PC020009 qty 2

Posted on Dec 21, 2008

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Oven door blows open during lighting sequence

Hi CL,

This is a common complaint and, luckily has a simple solution. I'll start with the solution and (if you're interested in the "why" of it) conclude with the cause.

First (solution)... your oven igniter has failed.

Second (cause)... Your oven utilizes a "glow" type igniter. In order for it to glow, electricity is applied and the current flowing through it causes it to get very, very hot. This electrical current is monitored by a device called a safety valve. This valve is programmed to open up main gas flow to the burner manifold after the igniter "flows" 2.6 to 3.2 amps.

Igniters are tricky little guys. Unlike a light bulb (which is either good or it's bad) igniters get "weak". So what happens is the igniter gets to 2.5, then to 2.59 then to 2.62, then back to 2.5 amps. It goes up and down. But the 2.62 amp "flow" was enough to open main gas, but not enough to ignite it. So there it goes... up and down. All the while the main gas is opening and closing, but not being ignited. This gas accumulates. Then finally, the igniter reaches it's ignition temperature.

That's when you get the explosion. The "whoosh".

It's not that difficult to replace the igniter. Yours is a part #WB2X9998 and can be purchased at a local appliance parts retailer or ordered online.

PULL THE OVEN OUT SLIGHTLY, REACH BEHIND IT AND UNPLUG IT!!!

Tools required:
1.) 1/4" socket or nut driver
2.) Flat or Phillips screwdriver
3.) Pliers
4.) Wire cutters
5.) Wire strippers

Remove the racks and then remove the "floor" panel of the oven. Then remove the diverter panel/burner baffle. Basically, your goal here is to disassemble the bottom of the oven. You may need to pull the lower drawer out.

After you have gained access to the igniter...you'll see that it's attached to the main manifold with two 1/4" screws (take note of its' position and how it's mounted to the manifold, the new one has to be mounted exactly the same). Word to the wise, here... use a little bit of liquid dish soap on the threads BEFORE trying to un-screw these. This will lubricate the threads and keep them from stripping. If you don't heed this warning and they strip? You'll have to grind them off in order to get the igniter removed.

Wire cutter time... snip the 2 white wires about 3" from the base of the old igniter. Wire stripper time... strip those 2 wires about a 1/2".

Now the old igniter is out. Pull out your new igniter. Cut any extraneous stuff off the END of the wires then strip them about a 1/2". Now mount the new igniter to the manifold (where the old one came from). Now take one wire (doesn't matter which one) from the new igniter and twist it to one of the wires you cut and stripped while removing the old igniter. Then use one of the ceramic wire nuts (included with your new igniter) and twist it on the exposed wires clock wise. Make sure there is NO WIRE EXPOSED after doing this. If there is, remove the wire nut and cut a small amount of you twisted wire pair off.

ALL OF THE EXPOSED WIRE SHALL BE INSIDE THE WIRE NUTS.

Do the same thing for the other wire. Now tuck all of the extra wire away. At this point, you're ready to test your handywork! Set it to bake and watch her light up (without the explosion tis time)!

All that's left to do now is rebuild the lower oven, grab a coolada and get some cookie dough. I'll be over at 6:00 for snacks :-)

SG

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Dacor oven door does not close completely

Place a hammer handle between the hinge and the door frame. Exert moderate pressure to close the door. It should spring back to normal position. Do both sides.

Posted on May 05, 2009

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I have a frigidaire professional, I am unable to close the oven door. I have a effortless oven rack systems


Good Afternoon Nancy,

I understand that you are unable to close your Frigidaire range door, model# FPGF3081KF. I would check to make sure that there is nothing blocking the door from closing. Make sure that the racks are in fully, and that the hinges on the door are not hindering the door from closing. If everything is fine there, make sure that the door locking mechanism is not engaged. If the locking mechanism is engaged, what you will want to do is press and hold down the oven lockout button for 5-10 seconds, while the door is still open. Give it about 15-30 seconds and the lock should retract. If none of these suggestions help, I would contact either the manufacturer or a local authorized technician for further assistance.

-Best Regards-
WP

Mar 27, 2014 | Frigidaire FPGF3081KF Stainless Steel Gas...

3 Answers

My KitchenAid Dishwasher door won't stay closed. It keeps popping open after a few seconds.


I experienced the same problem after my tension cables broke. The door fell open with such force that it bent the hinges a little. If you've replaced the tension strings (which you should do every 5-8 years) then you don't have to replace the latch. I did and it didn't solve the problem.
Here's the solution:
Put a towel at the bottom of each side of the door by the hinge.
Push the door closed a couple of times to bend back the hinges.
Remove the towels and you're back in action.
Good luck

Aug 11, 2012 | KitchenAid Dishwashers

1 Answer

The top shelf is not getting clean. There is food residue on the glassware that was not there at the start of the wash.


Hi,

The most likely answer is that your upper rotor spray arm isn't spinning or spraying water. They aren't powered by a motor - they are driven by water pressure. The most common reason for them not spinning is a blockage somewhere. The lower rotor arm is spraying dirt from the plates in the lower rack onto the glassware and there is no spray from the upper rotor arm to rinse it off.

Check the small spray holes on the top of the upper rotor arm. If they are blocked, use a large pin or a cocktail stick to clean them out. If they aren't blocked, check to see whether the upper rotor arm is spinning by following these steps:

1. Note the exact position of the upper spray arm or spin it so that it is running precisely left to right or front to back
2. Close the door
3. Start any wash cycle
4 After it has finished filling with water and starting cycling the water, open the door and note the position of the upper spray arm again.

If the spray arm is in the exact same position as when you closed the door it's almost definite that it's not spinning. In this event, cancel the wash and do the above test one more time just to eliminate the element of pure chance.

Try the above tests and checks and then post back with the results if you need any further assistance. If posting back, please include the full model number of your Frigidaire dishwasher

Regards,
BElectric.

Dec 14, 2010 | Frigidaire Professional Series 24 in....

1 Answer

Soap dispenser flap (door?) does not open during cycle


Be sure that the lower rack is installed correctly, If reversed, the rack will block the soap door shut. One side of the rack has opening for the door.

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1 Answer

Electrical panel went blank. Hence can't operate the oven. Stove works fine.


Hi. Interesting. My Figidaire Gallery Professional gas stainless went blank 2 days ago. Model FGF379WECS. So I'm googling...

Your Service Manual is located at (document #2 in link):
http://www.retrevo.com/support/Frigidaire-GLEFM397D-Ranges-manual/id/2367bh351/t/2/

Part Number
316418704
Description :
Clock/Timer, electronic, w/mini oven, ES510

Rick

May 15, 2010 | Frigidaire Gallery GLEFM397DS Electric...

1 Answer

How to start oven in PROPANE STOVE


Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

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DCS 30 inch oven door fell off


First thing is be careful them sprins are strong and will hurt your fingers bad if not careful. That said place both hinges in 1/3 open position they should stop there. if not put both all the way open then slide door back on and close. supposed to only lift off in 1/3 open position but whatever works.

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1 Answer

Door opens beyond position parellel to floor


Hi dougisommer

I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.

Your question is: The door springs seem fine but when we open the door and wheel out the lower dish rack, the door drops further and the rack rolls down to the floor. Reading other postings, it seems like a good name for this is a broken "door catcher." How can I fix this?

You may need a sevice tech for this. The 'door catchers' on the sides of the unit can only be accessed after removing. Not a job for the inexperienced.

Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Thank you,
Harvey your Master Plumber

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I found the problem to be neither blockages of the upper arm or roof spray arm or the upper basket arm hitting the the back of the dishwasher. the problem was that the pump inlet where the food scraps are macerated was blocked with all manner of gunge including small chicken bones plastic and other detritus. Removal of the macerator housing under the upper filter housing using 2 different sizes of torx driver easily fixed the problem. Probably why the upper dish rack cleaning degraded overtime, Directly proportional to the amount of detritus blocking the intake screen behind the macerator.17a8801.jpgb9e8fa8.jpg789f2b8.jpgfb7a626.jpgator. See pics

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1 Answer

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I believe paddy55 is correct about the rack position affecting the rinse agent door. When the top rack is moved to the higher position, the rack hits the latch on the rinse agent door, causing it to pop open.

Move the rack back to the lower position and see if the door stays closed.

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