Question about Pioneer GM-7200M Car Audio Amplifier

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Can't get my pioneer amp to power on

I have tested the battery and all the wires running to the amp with a volt meter, and it shows that there's power, how ever, when i turn my car on, the amp simply doesn't power on, can some one help me?

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  • musician891 Jan 13, 2009

    ya i checked those to they appeared to be fine....

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  • 45 Answers

This happened to me make shure that you check fuse underhood/ and the fuse inside of the amp.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

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1 Answer

2003 Saturn vue awd 3.0 testing showed alternator putting out about 1/2- we replaced the alternator & the serpentine belt,- red wire?the new alternator in did not solve the problem-battery is new-


How do you know it's only putting out about 1/2 ? an 1/2 what ? Amps or volts ? Did you hook up a volt meter to the battery posts ? red to red an black lead to negative post of the battery ? Does it show 13.1 to 14. 1 volts with the engine running , if so it's charging . The only thing that would cause the alternator not to put out full charge amps would be a bad diode inside the alternator or a power or ground issue. You need to check power an grounds doing a voltage drop test . Voltage Drop Testing the Charging System

Oct 26, 2015 | Saturn Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why dose my battery drain when motor bike is running


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Honda shadow vt1100 Owners Workshop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VT1100C2 Owner Manual Page 3

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1 Answer

2010 flhx battery fully charged but starter drags bad then clicks. Jumped power from car, still does the same thing.


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Jan 01, 2014 | 2010 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

Battery discharges in about 3 days if not run.


it may have deffective diode on the charging system(the alternator). 14 volts is an over charge in a battery. ampere reading must be on what the battery designed.

Mar 01, 2012 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

1997 gmc jimmy starter motor not turning


You need a better battery. When you hook the amp meter and read 0.3 the ECM needs to sleep

Jan 05, 2012 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

I HAVE A STOCK 2008 700 GRIZZLY, IT WONT CHARGE. i HAVE THE FACTORY MANUEL. I KNOW ITS EITHER THE REGULATOR, OR THE STATOR. ANY HELP


Find the Regulator & unplug. Connect a AC volt meter to the 3 white wires at the connector that is unplugged from the reg. connecting the 2 red & black meter leads to ANY 2 white wires at the plug (colors don't matter with AC. Run the bike & rev up. You should have starting at about 30 volts ac Up to about 90 volts ac reved if the Stator is good. Now move the 2 meter leads to 2 more white connections & check again. Now you have one more pair of white connections to check. Should have the same 90 volts on any of the 3 pairs of whites (3 phases). If they are low, The startor inside the cover is burnt--Replace it. If good, Then the Regulator/Rectifier Unit that rectifies ac to dc & then regulates the output at 14 ~ 14.5 volts DC on the red & ground (Green or black or housing ground) to go to the battery is the only other part that is for charging. You can't test a regulator other than to see if you have 90 v AC going into it & the plugged in it should be showing 14 Volts DC at the battery terminals , Not just 12 volts. Make shure you have a fully charged GOOD battery before tests or the readings will all be off.

Jun 03, 2011 | Yamaha XS 650 F Motorcycles

2 Answers

1982 Yamaha XJ 550, the battery will not take a charge. New battery, checked all connections, ran all the tests (stator, brushes, and alternator). Replaced the voltage regulator/recifier. Not sure what is...


It is corrected properly, right? + to the wiring harness and - to ground ... right? Are you certain about the rectifier? Is the battery charged at this time?

You know a alternator cannot make power unless you first put power into it ... right? Alternators (unlike most generators) are not self exciting. If your battery is weak or "dead", the alternator cannot make electricity to charge the battery. I don't know what the rating of your alternator is. Your battery should be fully charged before you do any more tests. If you have a 1 amp charger, allow at least 10 hours for a full charge. Don't cook your battery with a big, powerful, fast charging automotive battery charger.

Good luck with your repair ... I hope you find this response helpful.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

May 02, 2011 | Yamaha XJ 650 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Fan on my big buddy heater just stopped working changed batteries still not working?tried the switch nothing .i only have radiant heat.


I would first check the wiring connections to fan and get a multi meter , set on 12 volts dc and see if fan motor has 12 vdc input voltage.
Too cheap to buy a voltage tester at wal mart ot harbor frieght, you can use a 12 volt bulb and socket, if you already have one. Remove fan wires & hook up 12 volt light bulb & if it lights, you got the juice. Carefull,dont let live wires touch because you short out $26.00 big buddy fan transformer. work with fan transformer unplugged from wall and dont plug in until you sure no wires touch.
use electrical or duct tape. electrical tape better.

otherwise,just buy the multi meter, they only $8.00 to $10.00
read & understand instructions, before you try to use it. otherwise,you could burn out your new meter.

well worth owning &
learning to use multi meter. I use it thousands of times.

if fan motor has juice but wont run, check fan shaft to see if it turns freely or scrapes or is stuck. oil fan motor bearings ,change the brushes.
make sure that the fan blades are not touching the fan housing and can turn freely.
if it still dont work, buy new fan motor.
if no juice at fan motor, check mr heater switch with the power off,unplug transformer from the wall or remove batteries.,
and use the ohm meter setting of the multi- meter to test for continuity of the switch when the switch is in the on position.
power must be off when using the ohm setting of a multimeter.
if power is on & using the ohm setting of the multi meter, you will blow out the multimeter. The ohm setting uses a 1.5 volt dc battery inside the multimeter to test for a compleated circuit.
so, 12volts dc would blow it out on ohms setting.
TESTING FOR OUTPUT OF FAN TRANSFORMER OR BATERY PACK.
If the switch is good,reinstall it on mr.heater and test the output of the transformer or battery compartment using the 20 volt dc scale of the multi meter. the voltage scale you select ,must be higher than the voltage you expect to find ,in order to avoid damage to the multi meter.
observe polarity,positive to red and negative to black.

the dc voltmeter setting is totally polarity sensitive and a reversed hook up could blow out the meter.
multi meter means it can read ac volts, dc volts,ohms and dc amps. Read and understand the included instructions before using a multi meter
a good single battery in new condition reads 1.62volts dc
1.5 vdc is almost dead, a good used battery reads 1.58 to 1.6 vdc
below 1.58 vdc is weak battery and 1.48 vdc is usually totally dead, but may be enough for momentary usage under 1 minute.

Sep 08, 2010 | Mr. Heater Big Buddy Heater

2 Answers

My 1989 camaro Z28 battery is being drained while it is off. what could be the problem?


It can be an amp,or a clock,or maybe the alternator.Put a volt meter ,or test light between the negative cable(negative cable removed from battery)and the negative battery post,the volt meter should show 12 volts,or the test light will light up,then unplug the alternator plug,if the voltage drops on the meter,or the test light ,light goes off,this is the problem,if it does not,start unplugging fuses one at a time ,and putting them back as you pull them if it is not the fuse that turns the test light off,or drops in the volt meter,be sure to go ahead a pull the dome light fuse first,cause this will make a false reading,you will have the door open.

May 23, 2010 | 1989 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

Battery is showing 13.5 volts on multi-meter but motor is not coming up to full speed turning light is ok. Joints. Wiring looks okjust not as quick as it was.6 weeks ago.chris


your battery may show the 13.5 volts but it is the amps you need to worry about in this case.you will have to have the battery load tested,sounds like the battery has a weak cell or a dead cell.

May 20, 2010 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

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