Question about Frigidaire FEF326 Electric Kitchen Range
The range top works, the clock works, the elements look okay to visual inspection. There is a clicking noise coming from the control panel, and neither element heats at all.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Richard, sounds like you did all the pretests. You'll need a new display panel. When you work on it, be sure to cut the power.
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
With the oven OFF, check the resistance of the bake element with a ohmmeter on the lowest scale. Rx1. If your reading is infinate, replace the element as most elements will open circuit when they burn out. They don't short out.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
you should have 220v between the two terminals of the elements, either the switch is broken or a contact is burned or a feed wire is broken to the switch, check wire diagram and carefully analyze the system while it is "hot" ie... energized
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
If your electric oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..
Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
Posted on May 14, 2010
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