Question about Refrigerators
The freezer works fine& the bottom fridge compartment is ok. But when it is "charging" the front edge of the housing gets very hot ( very hot to touch). Also some of the cabinet at the edge also gets hot to about a distance of 3 inches past the front edge.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: losing coldness in freezer and
Condenser is in need of being cleaned badly or your fan motor to cool the condenser is not operating. Compressor is overheating. Removed the panel in back of the refrigerator and clean the condenser so air can freely pass over it for heat removal. Allow compressor to cool off before restarting it.
Posted on Jun 10, 2008
SOURCE: FRIDGE COMPARTMENT FREEZING
try this,make sure you dont have anything blocking your blower in the freezer.if that is okay if you have seperate controls for the freezer and the fridge,try setting the frige setting lower and the freezer higher,this makes the blower work more in the freezer.hope it helps.
Posted on Dec 06, 2008
I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.
If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,
After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.
The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.
Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.
When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.
Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
I have a similar problem, although I have no cooling in the fridge section. Had a repair man indicate that the electrical panal(pcb board) needs to be replaced. It is on order ($200). Sure hope that is the issue. To me, it appeared that the freezer fan(which cools the fridge) was not working. Whether that is the result of a faulty electrical panal is yet to be determined. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
How to check everything
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 06, 2014 | Zanussi Refrigerators
Jul 27, 2011 | Refrigerators
Sep 06, 2009 | Hoover HFA270K Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
Sep 04, 2009 | Refrigerators
Aug 20, 2009 | Refrigerators
Jul 13, 2009 | GE Refrigerators
Mar 27, 2009 | Kenmore 57029 Side by Side Refrigerator
Mar 24, 2009 | GE Profile Stainless Bottom-Freezer...
Oct 04, 2008 | Kenmore Refrigerators
May 22, 2018 | Refrigerators
May 22, 2018 | GE Refrigerators
357 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!