Question about Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer
After lifting lid during delicate cycle, the machine refused to start working again when lid was lowered. It now won't start filling under any cycle at all.
I checked the electrical schematic and the only thing that made sense was the lid check switch. Opened the top of the washer, checked the switch and it was not working. It is the switch shown below. The red button was not up therefore it is broken.
Just to make sure I bypaased the switch with a jumper and made the washer work.
You can order the lid switch online at partselect.com, the part number is PS60679 and it costs $10.38 plus shipping.
Here is someone else's experience with the same switch.
Washer was dead and would not turn on Overall Rating:
Suleman From Canoga Park CA
Appliance Repaired: Maytag Washer
Age Of Appliance: 1 - 4 years
Well the washer died and would not turn on in the middle of a wash cycle. Absolutely dead. I disconnected it from power and opened up the front panel on which all the control switches and knobs are mounted. This is removed by unscrewing 4 screws at the top of the washer.
Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, closed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.
Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)
Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
Parts Used: Lid Check Switch Level of difficulty: Easy Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins Tools: Wrench set , Screw drivers
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
Call people that you got your washer from and they will tell you more than i can
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
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