Question about Exercise & Fitness
I replaced the motor and the new one performs the same way. There is a bright arc and then the belt stops. The red light on the controller goes out briefly and then comes back on.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.
BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish) This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections instructions. The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3” without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem. DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace the control.
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Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Likely the cover of one of the motor brushes popped off. Unplug the machine before you pop it back in place, then try it again.
If that doesn't work, most likely it's the motor control board, or possibly the console, or finally just a loose connection behind the console.
But most likely, it's the motor brush cover. I've been seeing that alot with this model.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
I think you are talking about the front roller. It has a rubber sleeve that helps to grip the walking belt. Sometimes you can tighten this enough to keep it from slipping but you run the risk of overtightening and damaging both rollers. We recomend replacing that roller.
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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If you can walk on your treadmill but you get a burning smell from it, you have a bad problem and discontinue use immediately and unplug the treadmill.
Burning smells are most commonly associated with the following problems:
1) Very high belt/deck friction.
2) Short in the motor.
3) Short in the wiring or electronics.
4) Literally cooking the lacquer or cardboard core (on cheap machines) in the motor from belt friction or a drive system
Friction is the #1 cause of this problem. Many cheaper treadmills have a motor with a cardboard core (people wonder why we are so
down on cheap treadmills) and if the voltage and amperage through the motor heats it up sufficiently, it begins to smolder. If this is the
case, you normally have to replace the belt and the motor and inspect the deck. If the armature has cooked enough in the motor, you
also have to replace the motor.
If the belt and deck check out OK, check for a short in the motor. You can run the motor with an independent power source like a fullycharged
cordless drill battery to see if the symptoms are the same. Click on the following link for our motor test.
If the belt and deck check out and the motor is OK, then check your wiring and electronics for signs of scorching and replace the
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