Question about Whitewater Fuse 48 Kayak

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Bmw fuse 48

Hello, I have a bmw x5 2002. The battery can't hold it's charge. After some troubleshooting we determined it was whatever fuse 48 controlls. That is the controller for the heater/air conditioner. We need help from here. Can you help? What should we do next?

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If the batt cant hold its charge its a bad battery , get it tested. if it isnt being recharged its the alternator get that tested after step one

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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BMW 2002 X5 Battery Drain


I am having the same problem with my 2002 X5. There is a motor or fan running behind the AC control panel on the dash and if I pull fuse 48 it stops and the battery doesn't drain. Still looking for the cause and solution so that I don't have to keep pulling and installin fuse 48. BMW garage suggested that it was the Final Stage Blower Resistor. I replaced this and no change. I hope someone has an answer that will help us both.

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Battery runs down after setting for 48 hours . Has new battery


Generally when a battery keeps dying even after replacement one of two things is the problem. Either the alternator or alternator belt (however, if this was the case, one would think it would die while driving down the road) OR Something is drawing power that shouldn't be, for example, let's say the switch that shuts off the light in the trunk is broken, so the light is staying on all the time and you may not be aware of it, constantly draining the battery. A quick test for the alternator is to visually inspect the belt, check belt tension. Measure battery voltage using a multimeter, start vehicle, measure battery voltage again, it should be higher than when you measured it with the vehicle off, this is a decent indicator that your alternator is working. To test for a drain on the system, first shut everything off. This includes lights, radio, taking out the keys, closing the doors, turning off headlights, heater, etc. To measure the drain, you must remove the positive battery cable from the battery. Connect a multimeter capable of reading amps DC in series between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable. If you have more than half an amp, you probably have a drain on the battery. Now, with the meter still connected in the manner described, you must remove fuses one by one until you determine which circuit the problem is on (excessive current reading on the meter goes to acceptable levels). This website has a very good description with a few pictures and other information about battery drain:
http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html
After determining which fuse the drain is on, you must determine what is now not working (hopefully your fusebox has a diagram on the lid, most do) and troubleshoot that circuit.

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You need to make sure your battery is fully charged and it holds that charge. Check your ignition fuse. Check the wires to the battery and make sure there is no damage. Make sure the terminals are clean. Your battery may not be holding a charge. It may be the alternator killing the battery. Inspect the wires that go to the battery to the starter. It may be the starter or starter solenoid. You can check each part by testing the current in the wires, going and leaving the part. If you have a question, let me know. I am here to help in anyway I can.

Feb 17, 2011 | 2001 BMW 330

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HELLO: OUR MILWAUKEE 48-59-2401 BATTERY CHARGER IS NOT CHARGING OUR 48-11-2401 BATTERY PACKS. WHEN YOU RUN THE PACK DOWN TO 1 OR 2 LIGHTS & PUT IT IN THE CHARGER BOTH RED & GREEN LIGHTS FLASH....


If both lights are flashing after you put a cool battery on the charger, the battery is bad. It could have a bad, worn or shorted cell or other problems inside and the charge will not charge it as long as it reads it as a bad battery. Rechargable batteries do have a finite life determined mainly by how many times you recharge them.

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My 740i bmw will not start only click i get a jump off and drive it for hour or longer soon as i cut it off it does the same thing


One of two things could be the issue. I would drive it to an AutoZone or similar parts store. They will check the battery (under load, as any battery will normally show 12+ volts with a voltmeter) and should be able to determine if it is the battery or the voltage regulator. Unfortunately if it is the regulator you may have to get another battery as well. But since you can drive for an hour or so after a jump, I would say the battery is not holding charge correctly and needs to be changed. Hope this helps

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Might be as simply as a new battery. Remove battery from vehicle and bring it to a repair shop or Sears Auto Center (they are the battery, and charging system Kings) and have them load test the battery. If battery fails purchase a new battery . Once the vehicle is up and running take it back to them and have them test the charging system and determine whether the vehicle has battery drain .

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1 Answer

My 92 bmw 735i's battery died last week and it has already been replaced with a new one. It started up fine since then. Today, it wouldn't start at all without a jumpstart. I dared to drive out of my drive...


Sounds like the battery is not holding a charge, or something is draining the battery. You can check this by making sure everything in the car is turned off, disconnect the positive terminal of the battery, connect a test light to the battery terminal and the other end to the battery cable, if the test light lights up, something is drawing on the battery. You can pull one fuse at a time to try to determine what curcuit the problem is in. Most parts stores will test your battery, takes a couple hours.

Mar 06, 2010 | 1992 BMW 7 Series

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