Question about Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

The washer does not agitate or spin. What might the problem be? Can you tell the age of the unit by the serial number?

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  • P Karnay Dec 04, 2012

    The Model # is LTE6234DQO and the Serial # is MF2714410.

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Dec 04, 2012

    OK, you will need to replace the lid switch. Here is the part to order. http://bit.ly/VhRJBF Here is the date code lookup.http://appliancecafe.com/datecodes.html

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Dec 04, 2012

    Here is the service manual to help you access the lid switch.https://docs.google.com/open?id=0ByaSSg1...

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the complete model number of the unit?

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

chessmaster2
  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: washer will not agitate on wash cycle

could be a belt (doubtful) or it could be the connector underneath the. if the bolt isn't tight, it could be sliding along the cutout that makes the agitator work. tip forward and check it from beneath/backside whicheverr has the easiest access to view the connections.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: Old Washer won't spin or agitate

You found a belt? Most w/p washer do not have a belt they are direct drive. take off the pump and motor to replace the motor coupling, 2 plastic pieces w/ a rubber in between

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: INGLIS WASHER SUPERB AGITATOR DOES NOT WORK

sorry not real solution as I am not familiar with that design but recommend replacing machine.

Posted on Apr 28, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Will not Spin or Agitate. Whirlpool washer came

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.

Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

Take note of your symptoms:

1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.

2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.

If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing. That way I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this information is helpful to you.

PS The age of the washer is determined by the Serial Number on the appliance. If you post back with the number I can tell you the year it was manufactured.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: My Whirlpool washer won't spin

Hi, It sounds like the coupler has broken. If the motor runs but doesn't do either of these things, here is how to Removing the cabinet. UNPLUG the washer. There are two screws holding the control panel to the cabinet. Most models the screw are in front but, some models have the screws in back. They are on each end. Now raise the control panel up and let it rest on the hinges. Unplug the lid switch harness and locate the clips on each side (bronze in color) and release them.
Now the cabinet will lift off the frame and you can set it aside.

How to replace a coupler:
Now that the cabinet is out of the way, remove the pump from the motor and set the pump off to the side. Remove the two screws holding the clips on the motor and remove the clips. Unplug the motor harness and on some models you wil need to unplug the capacitor.
Now you will need to replace all three parts to the coupler. I use a ½” socket and a small hammer to force the coupler onto the motor and transmission shafts. Put the rubber part onto the coupler half on the transmission and then line up the post on the motor shaft with the holes on the rubber part and it should go on ok. Put the clips that hold the motor in place and plug in the harnesses.
Put the pump back on and the clips to hold it in place. Set the cabinet back on the frame. Make sure the lip on the front cabinet is under the front rail of the frame. Ease the cabinet on the frame making sure the two rear sides of the cabinet set down on the tabs of the frame.
Put the two clips back on that hold the cabinet and plug the lid switch back in. Fasten the control panel down and you are all set.
Please let me know if this helps you or if I can assist you further.

Vic

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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What wrong if washer fills, spins, advances but just clicks thru agitate and rinse?


Likely bad board. May not be worth repairing depending on age/make/model of machine

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Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.This unit spins in one direction for spin and the other for agitate. If its not agitating and the motor is running then the trans failed. Some of these have a ten year trans and labor warranty. Go to maytag site and put in your model and serial and check the warranty.And the brakes on this unit are pretty quick to stop.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

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Agitator just stop working. Spin cycle will run. Rinse will drain the water, add new water, but the Agitator will not work. Do you have any ideas? Do you know how old the machine is?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This problem points to a couple of places:



The first unfortunately is the motor. Kenmore / Whirlpool top load direct drive washers use a reversing motor.

When in agitate mode, the motor turn one way, When in spin mode it turns the other way for draining and spinning.

I'd check the following first before assuming that it's the motor though.


First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.

Following is a description of how to take them out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/

$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack

can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to

fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.

When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.

As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it..

As to the age of the washer. Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a part of the serial number to determine the year the washer was made..

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