Question about Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
could be a belt (doubtful) or it could be the connector underneath the. if the bolt isn't tight, it could be sliding along the cutout that makes the agitator work. tip forward and check it from beneath/backside whicheverr has the easiest access to view the connections.
Posted on Dec 05, 2008
SOURCE: Old Washer won't spin or agitate
You found a belt? Most w/p washer do not have a belt they are direct drive. take off the pump and motor to replace the motor coupling, 2 plastic pieces w/ a rubber in between
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
Take note of your symptoms:
1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.
2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.
If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing. That way I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this information is helpful to you.
PS The age of the washer is determined by the Serial Number on the appliance. If you post back with the number I can tell you the year it was manufactured.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
SOURCE: My Whirlpool washer won't spin
Hi, It sounds like the coupler has broken. If the motor runs but doesn't do either of these things, here is how to
Removing the cabinet. UNPLUG the washer. There are two screws holding the control panel to the cabinet. Most models the screw are in front but, some models have the screws in back. They are on each end. Now raise the control panel up and let it rest on the hinges. Unplug the lid switch harness and locate the clips on each side (bronze in color) and release them.
Now the cabinet will lift off the frame and you can set it aside.
How to replace a coupler:
Now that the cabinet is out of the way, remove the pump from the motor and set the pump off to the side. Remove the two screws holding the clips on the motor and remove the clips. Unplug the motor harness and on some models you wil need to unplug the capacitor.
Now you will need to replace all three parts to the coupler. I use a ½” socket and a small hammer to force the coupler onto the motor and transmission shafts. Put the rubber part onto the coupler half on the transmission and then line up the post on the motor shaft with the holes on the rubber part and it should go on ok. Put the clips that hold the motor in place and plug in the harnesses.
Put the pump back on and the clips to hold it in place. Set the cabinet back on the frame. Make sure the lip on the front cabinet is under the front rail of the frame. Ease the cabinet on the frame making sure the two rear sides of the cabinet set down on the tabs of the frame.
Put the two clips back on that hold the cabinet and plug the lid switch back in. Fasten the control panel down and you are all set.
Please let me know if this helps you or if I can assist you further.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
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