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I assume your frost is at the front of the ice bin? If so, your correct. Room temperature air is leaking in to a 0 degree environment and causing frost build up. First, I would see if the ice door closes 100% without spring by pressing your finger on the door. I've had bad ice doors that were warped. Next, inspect supporting rod and spring and make sure they look ok. An eye test should suffice. Next, without heat motor, the spring should keep door shut 100%. See if that helps, good luck!
The opening and closing by itself is either the door being out of alignment or the Door pin being worn and in need of replacement. As far as the interior lights staying on, look for the brightness control for the dashboard lights. If that is turned all the way to the brightest setting there is a position just past that which turns the interior lights on continuous. Make sure it is not in that position. If it is not in that position and the lights are staying on with all doors closed, to include the rears, and you have checked the switch on the dome light itself to make sure it isn't set to ON, then the problem is a switch in one of the door jams being grounded or a wire was tapped into the power circuit for the dome light that has grounded. This happens when the LoJack installer or Alarm installer makes the mistake of tapping the light circuit for power.
The lower section is connected to the top section through a common opening in the freezer floor. Shutting the bottom, being it is larger, will force air to open the top door. I installed a roller for a cabinet on top of my fridge to keep the door from pumping open. It is used to keep children out of cabinets. It is a roller wheel mounted on a spring loaded arm. It keeps the freezer shut until we open it. Some times the pumping action will force the door open enough it will not shut and things get soft. Hope this Helps Fix Ya up.
Hi, where the door hinges to the cab [ where it open and closes] there is a spring loaded button type plunger. This is spring loaded so when the door is closed the 'ground' is not able to connect. When the door is open the spring fully extends and makes contact with the ground wire. If all other interior lights are working most likely the problem is in or near this piece. First check to see if when you manually turn on the overhead light and or other interior lights that the others do indeed work and the dome light doesn't. If this is the case check where the bulb went in FIRST - pull the new bulb our and inspect CLOSELY that the unit is also working properly - there is a small spring here too that makes sure the bulb is making good contact. Between these two [ if all other lights are working] you should get some light on the subject. Hope this works for you.
If your problem is in all doors I'm probably wrong :)
But..you may find that an inner door jamb spring loaded switch has failed. It works exactly like the one in your fridge does, It triggers power to the light when the spring is out ,.. sometimes it gets stuck in you might just be able to clean and loosen it up.
There are a few problems that can occur with the diswasher door assembly. These usually involve the latching mechanism, the door seal, the counterbalance spring assembly or the hinges.
1) The door latch plate can occasionally become out of alignment. Some door latch plates are adjustable, some aren't. If yours is adjustable, try loosening the retaining screws and repositioning the plate. It's trial-and-error, so have a lot of patience. If this doesn't work, then the latch needs replacing. 2) A new dishwasher or a newly installed door seal can be difficult to close for a while until the seal softens and compresses over time. You can try adjusting the latch, if possible. 3) If the door feels unusually heavy, there could be a problem with the counterbalance spring assembly. These counterbalance assemblies allow the door to open and close easier and are held by two springs. On some dishwasher models, holes are positioned in line so you can re-tension the springs by moving the spring hooks to other tensioning holes. If any of these springs break, they will need to be replaced as a pair. 4) The door hinges might be bent. They can seldom be adequately fixed and should be replaced.
hope this helps
Fixed this problem! The door latches were greasy and sticking in the closed position (i.e., pushed down so not latching and engaging fully when the door was closed) and this created the problems described above. Solution was to squirt some Windex into the latch holes to dissolve the grease. The switches popped back into position (must be spring-loaded) and the door closed and latched properly, allowing the oven to function properly. I swabbed out the hole with a q-tip, let it dry for 20 minutes and all is well.