Question about Maytag Washing Machines
Thumping or banging noise only during wash cycle quiet during spin
You will need to pull the basket and check the drive block.
Here is a video to show you how to get to the drive block.
Posted on Dec 04, 2012
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: thumping and banging
make sure all shipping pins are out the tub should move all around from side to side if it level still bangs its eather the balance ring top basket are there 3 slides on a plate above the motor just put some silacone oil on tham move around
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
With the lid open, set the cycle to spin and press the lid switch button with a pen. Wait until the drum gets to full speed and release the lid switch. If the drum makes a knocking/ thumping noise and doesn't stop spinning within 2-3 seconds, the basket drive block is worn and needs to be replaced. (The basket drive block is located on the gearcase drive shaft, under the tub and agitator) If this has been happening for a long time you may need to replace the brake and drive tube assembly as well.
Basket drive block part number is 389140
If that's not it, let me know and I will try to help you further.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
Problem: very irritating squealing sound when washer is spinning or coasting to a stop after the spin cycle.
Case: 1. Snubber damage defective.
2. Foreign material (sand/dust or grit) is on the base.
Solution: 1. Replace the snubber.
2. clean base.
The snubber is a ring that is located between the convex (domed up) center portion of the base and the domed down center portion of the LEG & DOME ASSEMBLY.
The snubber has teflon strips at the top and bottom edges that slide easily on the base as well as the underside of the leg and dome assembly.
This system makes the machine very stable by providing isolation between the leg & dome assy. Which carries both the inner and outer tubs, as well as the main motor and transmission and the base; which is of course connected to the cabinet. This means that the machine is capable of spinning out of balance loads.
As simple as this system is, if one on the strips is bent or there is some foreign material on the base in the snubber area, the result can be an extremely obnoxious scratching or squealing sound that can make the consumer very unhappy.
A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.
The following procedure should be followed to diagnose and eliminate this condition:
Removing the snubber:
The base must be wiped whether the snubber is replaced or not. Any residue whether it is dust or grit of any kind (other than belt residue as noted above) can cause the objectionable sound to occur.
Remove the front service panel and place the timer in the spin cycle and start the machine. You want to try to duplicate the complaint. Inspect the base for sign of any foreign material. Lift the top panel up and over and lean it against the rear wall.
You will need a tool to raise the entire Leg & Dome Assembly (to which the main motor, tubs and transmission are attached). The machine will not need to be disassembled; the springs will not even be released.
Some Techs use a length of two-by-four" to raise the assembly. A pry-bar makes a superior tool when combined with a block of wood to act as a fulcrum (or pivot point).
Before raising the assembly, pull forward on it so that when you do raise it, the rear of the tub cover does not catch on the rear cabinet frame as it is being lifted.
Using your body weight, raise the assembly high enough to slide the snubber out. You will need to inspect the snubber for defects or damage. It is a good idea to be prepared with some sort of supports (like 3/4 inch pieces of wood) to slide between the lower edge of the assembly and the base to help support it if it were to slide off your pry-bar.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 15, 2017 | Frigidaire Washing Machines
Jan 31, 2018 | Washing Machines
Apr 08, 2010 | Whirlpool GHW9100L Front Load Washer
Jan 07, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Dec 23, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines
May 22, 2009 | Danby Washing Machines
Apr 06, 2009 | GE Dishwashers
Mar 10, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Feb 09, 2008 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer
May 15, 2018 | Maytag Washing Machines
368 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!