Kenmore Elite 5t shows an F30 code, water fill solenoid is making a noise like its not opening

6ya staff

• 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Brian Berndt

• 319 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE 5t

Hello

Please see this weblink here for a ton of info on your problem.

F11 = Serial Communication Error. Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.

Do this = Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components.

Please rate this post, if you are happy with my response. Respond back to this post if you need more help!

Posted on Jan 09, 2008

eagle338

• 4889 Answers

SOURCE: F 11 code

The electronic control board is damaged. It needs to be replaced. I think its Part#8182237. As of this date, it is on back-order. Check your warranty book on this part, it is highly expensive. It may be covered under a 2-5 yr. part only warranty.

Posted on Sep 03, 2008

Dan Webster

• 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Series 70 washing machine whines and low flow on cold H2O

Yeah you need to replace the water valve. To get to it you need to remove the cabinet on the newer direct drive models, If yours has a rear access panel then you simply pop the top to get to the valve after removing the hoses. Fairly simple job. Here is a good website for direct drive coupling replacement . It shows you how to open the cabinet. http://repair2000.com/coupling.html
GVI 151 is the generic part that fix all belt drive models. Direct drive will need its own little water valve buy hay it ain't but 20 bucks.
For a better explanation post you model number in the comment box and I will research it further for you amigo.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

SOURCE: This Kenmore Elite Top Load Washing machine has

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This gets a little tricky.

It sounds as if, based upon the weight in the tub being reduced, the noise gets less. Something is pressing on something else due to the weight.

If you look at the gearcase parts section of the Sears site, you'll see parts called the agitate gear and agitate cam.

If the agitate cam wears (it's two plastic pieces) when the transmission moves to the spin cycle, the cam is supposed to lift the gear above it.

If it doesn't lift the gear high enough, you'll hear loud gear noise. This may lessen as the washer pumps water out and there is less weight on the spring.

We had the same problem with a washer and found that by replacing the cams, the noise went away.

Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase


Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

SOURCE: kenmore elite mod# 11024942300 unit # 0009538

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://beta.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24942300&pathTaken=partSearch&prst=0&shdMod=110.24942300

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This problem points to a couple of places:


First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft. Also check that the Agitator Dogs aren't worn / damaged.

Following is a description of how to take the agitators out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

In answer to your other questions:

If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.

When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.

As an aside, tearing the washer apart will give you the opportunity to completely clean it.

Posted on Jul 31, 2010