Question about Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer
Sounds like there is something caught in the pump. You will need to open the cabinet and clear the pump out.
What is the complete model number of your unit?
Posted on Dec 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sound to me like you have a sock or some other foreign debris in the pump which is attached to your motor (thats your humming noise) now get all the water that you can out of the washer pull it out from the wall about a foot or two lean the washer against the wall making sure it wont fall on you look under and up and you will see a plastic part with two hoses on it this is the pump on the front is two clip on bracket with 1/4" screws remove the screws and pop off the claps lower the washer and start it again if it runs there is something in the pump if it humms and cuts off it is the motor.To remove the crud from the pump get alot of dirty towels for the floor and the remove the claps on the hoses after removing the hoses look inside and you will probly find that missing sock or a bra underwire let me know how it goes
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
then you will need to shut off the water and disconnect the water inlet line and check the filter screen for the water in , if that has rust deposit build up then this will cause problems like that , but if this doesn't seem to help then there is most likely something wrong with the way the water is let in , and it will need to be looked at to find out what is not working correctly or what is stopping the water from comming in
please give a fixya rating as everthing but a fixya will just hurt our rating which then makes us just not to want to help anymore, sorry but that is fixya doing this scoring ,but i will be happy to assist you if you further need it , thanks
Posted on Nov 08, 2008
Hello, from the limited information I have this sounds like it's going to be a broken coupling. Kenmores are usually direct drive machines made by whirlpool, this means they don't have a belt. Instead the transmission is connected directly to the motor via a coupling. This is what a coupleing looks like: To confirm this pull the machine forward enough that you can lean it back and it will stand back under it's own weight. Wedge something underneath the chasis so it does not fall on you while your accessing the bottom. Go under the Machine and locate the motor, You will see the pump connected to the motor connected to the transmission. 1. Unplug the wire harness from the motor then. 2. Use a screw driver remove the 2 clips holding the pump in place and remove or push the pump out of the way. 3. You will need to remove the 2 screws from the brackets holding the Motor in place with a nut driver. 4. With a screwdriver remove the 2 clips holding the motor in place (be carefull to support the motor as the clips comes off) 5. remove the motor and drop it onto the floor. Now you will see the coupling..one side on the motor the other side on the transmission the rubber connector inbetween. Replace the coupling if broken or worn and reassemble the washer in reverse order. Now you should be all set. Be aware you may smell rubber on the first couple loads this is normal after replacing a coupling. Good Luck!! if you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike p.s Please remember to rate my solution since this helps me to help other people :) Thanks! P.s Don't forget to unplug the power cord before servicing.
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
This problem points to one of two areas.
One is the timer or timer motor itself.
If you manually move the timer to the spin cycle and the washer begins to drain and spin, It's likely that you'll need a replacement timer.
Replacing one isn't difficult but is more expensive than the other possibility.
The other area is the Motor Coupler.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
Mine did the same thing. It was bad lid switch. It is best to replace switch, but you can bypass it by cutting its two wires, connecting them together, and taping the spice. Be aware by doing so that the washer will now agitate and spin with the lid up, which is the purpose of that switch. Also unplug cord from wall before doing any repairs. Attemp only if you are comfortable with wiring repairs.
Posted on May 12, 2010
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