- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
you have an airflow problem. Check the vent hose all the way out and the outdoor vent hood.
a simple verification can be performed by disconnecting the vent hose from the dryer and see if this solves the problem.
Not enough airflow caused by blockage in the exhaust vent pipe.(most common) Check for strong airflow coming out of the back of machine, then check for good airflow at exterior vent. Clean vent if airflow is restricted.
One final note on these: if you find your thermal fuse\cut off (or element)
open, before replacing it, be sure to check the airflow out your dryer's
vent system. Even though these devices do 'wear out' with age, poor
airflow's the #1 cause of failure of these devices, and if your vent's
partially clogged, a new thermal won't last very long, but will do its
job again, and leave you
'cold' (a new element won't last long if the vent's clogged,
The main cause for thermal fuses to blow is a restricted airway. You need to make sure that your path for airflow is clear:
Check your dryer hose: make sure it is clear of debris inside, make sure it is not kinked when the dryer is in place.
Check your dryer vent: some houses and apartments have a fairly long dryer venting system before it reaches outside.
Check your dryer: just after the lint trap and prior to the blower motor is a common place for a blockage. You may have to take the front of the dryer apart to get to it. I have seen all kinds of things get passed the lint filter.
Each of these things would cause even a new thermal fuse to blow quickly. A combination of them could easily do that. The thermal fuse is the dryer's safety cut off, preventing your dwelling from burning down from an out of control dryer. So it's all about airflow, airflow, airflow.
It's always a good idea to replace both the thermal fuse AND safety thermostat when the fuse is found open. In fact, most manufacturers supply these in kits that include both parts. The thinking is, if the thermal's blown, it's a pretty fair bet that the safety tstat's been doing a LOT of cycling, and is most likely really stressed.
There is an obvious problem with your dryer (or venting) if this problem continues to happen.
One final note on these: if you find your thermal fuse (or element) open, before replacing it, be sure to check the airflow out your dryer’s vent system. Even though these devices do ‘wear out’ with age, poor airflow’s the #1 cause of failure of these devices, and if your vent’s partially clogged, a new thermal won’t last very long, but will do its job again, and leave you ’cold’ (a new element won't last long if the vent's clogged, either).
To check for blockage - remove the dryer vent right where it exits the machine. Inspect inside the vent tube, and the exhaust tube.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
My dryer stopped working, using a multimeter I determined that the thermal fuse was open. I unclogged all the ducts then ordered a high limit thermal kit. After changing the fuse, it blew-up on the first cycle. It turns out that even though the high limit checked ok, it was defective. After changing both the fuse and the thermostat(included in the kit $25), the dryer worked correctly.
your blowing that many thermal fuses, id replace all the thermostats. (2) come in one kit both on heater box 1 top and one bottom. id also look into your venting, a clogged fo kinked vent is going to overheat the unit and blow all sorts of stuff(not to mantion the potential fire hazard of a bad vent