Question about Nor-Lake Norlake Refrigeration 4' x 6' Kold Locker Walk-In Cooler - 6' 7'' High w/Floor

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Bar fridge My sylvaina bar fridge is not cooling..The compressor clicks on for about 30 seconds and the it clicks off...After 5miutes the compressor gets warm to hot...Does this mean the unit is gone? Is it worth fixing?

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  • Jack Ing Jan 19, 2009

    Thanks Mr Mark 52 and Skeeter140..The little black box you refer to as the relay two pin connector, according to the schematic it is called the starter is that right? I shake it it does'nt rattle...After 30 seconds there is a clicking sound, according to the schematic it is called the motor protector with one pin connector...Both get warm to hot...Is there a motor inside the compressor? Someone said that the compressor will not work if the freon is low...The fridge is practically new, a shame to throw it away...2004 Sylvania se80102-3.....shade-ing

  • Jack Ing Jan 20, 2009

    Thanks Guys, I appreciate all your help...I will try to find a place to order this relay and hope that this will fix the problem.....To my understanding, when the switch does work the motor in the compressor will run? Looking forward in keeping the water bottles and most importantly the Beers cold!!!!!! I'll keep in touch of the outcome....shade-ing

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There is a PTC relay on the compressor you need to replace it. Small black square looking device take the wire retainer clip off and pry off the relay. Get the wires going to relay noted and then get the model number and make of your unit. Go to a parts house for appliances and get a new one. About 25 bucks for that little dude but it is a needed for your compressor. Could get a 3 in 1 relay they are a lot cheaper and easy to install. let me know how it goes ken

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

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Chances are, the compressor has locked up. You can try skeeter140's suggestion, but I doubt it will do any good.

Pull the relay off the compressor and shake it. If it rattles, then it's probably good. If it doesn't, go buy a new one as suggested.

Repair is not usually recommended.


Posted on Jan 15, 2009

  • Mark Egan Jan 19, 2009

    1) Yes, there is a motor inside the compressor.
    2) Yes, the relay inside the little black box is called a start relay, and it's either solid state (PTC) device, or it's mechanical. If it's solid state, just get another one as it's not easily tested. If it was mechanical, you should be able to see a heavy coil of copper or aluminum wire wrapped the outside of it. The rattle is a plunger/switch which makes up part of an electromagnet created by the coil.
    If the relay doesn't rattle, then the plunger is welded in the closed position, and that will cause the compressor to run about 30 seconds, then trip out on internal overload. When the overload cools, the compressor tries again, and the sequence starts all over again.
    And, so far, you've described nothing but an electrical problem. Don't go fishing into the freon side of the system because your looking down the wrong road if you go there. Unit's like this don't usually have low suction pressure switches on them (which would cause actions as you describe.). But, this unit's sounds too new for that to be the problem.


  • Mark Egan Jan 20, 2009

    Yes, the motor in the compressor will run.

    There are two windings in the motor, inside of the compressor. A start winding, and a run winding. Both windings are energized when the thermostat says "Make it cold in here.". But the start winding should only stay powered, through the start relay, for just a second or two, until the motor begins to run. Then the start relay drops the start winding out of the circuit.
    If the start relay does not drop the start winding out, the motor windings heat up, causing the internal high temperature reset to trip out (possibly after 30 seconds that you indicated.). Once it cools, the whole process starts over again.


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