Question about Whirlpool MH6130XEB/Q Microwave Oven
2 problems- When starting it goes on then off with a strange sound in the control area then comes on & completes the time until today it comes on then goes off & doesn't come on but sounds like the switch continues to cycle trying to come on;timer continues to run.
Another problem- when operating there is a vibration that is louder that normal. It sounds like it is coming from the upper part of the microwave. occasionally it stops but not for very long.
Sounds like you just fried your magnetron. Normally when they go bad, they make a very loud noise like what you described. The smell concerns me because you may have ruined the waveguide as well. If the magnetron burns through the protective painted surface of the waveguide, the waveguide is ruined. In most microwave ovens this means replacing the entire unit because the waveguide is not replaceable. Putting a new magnetron in a damaged waveguide will result in the same arcing and eventual failure. In addition to the magnetron, the following components are part of the same high voltage network: HV Transformer HV Diode HV Capacitor Magnetron Thermal Cut-Out Any one of these components could have also been damaged. I DO NOT recommend taking any voltage measurements inside the HV network. Potentials of over 4000 volts can be reached and make it very dangerous for the do-it-yourselfer. Taking resistance readings with the unit unplugged is strongly encouraged. If you decide to pursue a repair, inspect the magnetron tip and inside of the waveguide first. If the magnetron is melted and/or there are burn marks inside the waveguide, a new microwave may be a in order. This actually may be a better option than an expensive repair. I hope you find this advice helpful.
Posted on Jul 31, 2007
Worked great!! I bought a new fuse for $4.50 and replaced it and the microwave works again....light is still not working but I'm ok with that!! Thanks!!!!
Posted on Mar 27, 2008
SOURCE: No power from Whirlpool.
The problem was a defective switch. There are 3 switches on mine. 1 on the top door latch, and 2 on the bottom. one of the switches on the bottom connected the power and neutral together, unless it was activated at the same time as the other 2, causing the breaker to trip or the internal fuse to blow. When unhooking the wire going from this switch to the other switch, everything works great now. Though I still need to replace the switch.
And for Basic 1. Yes my microwave did have a fuse in it it's ceramic, I got a pack of them at Radio Shack 4 for 3$ 250V 20 Amp. There should be a wiring diagram inside the microwave, mine was inside a black bag, so it may be hard to see.
Mine was up top next to the fuse behind the Plastic Grill and then a small metal grill. Some are behind the control panel, to fix this remove the screw at the top and then slide the control panel up and it should unhinge.
Posted on Apr 01, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool Microwave
The magnetron has failed and has damaged the waveguide. This type of failure is generally unrepairable. First look in your owners manual for specific warranties, then contact Whirlpool and explain to them what has happened.
If you need further assistance, let me know
Posted on Jul 08, 2008
That's how it would sound if you were cooking on a power level less than full power.
If you enter the cooking time and hit Start, it should cook at full power by default and not cycle like you describe.
If you are using some sensor cook setting or automatic type cooking setting, it may cycle like that normally.
The first thing to try is a "hard reset". Unplug it from the power line for a minute, plug it back in, set the clock, then try again.
Let us know if the hard reset doesn't fix it.
If you don't have your manual, you can download it free here. Check the lower right area to enter your model. number.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 18, 2008
is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch
mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or
problem on the control panel.
Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.
If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on May 26, 2009
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