Question about Whirlpool MH6130XEB/Q Microwave Oven

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Whirlpool model number MH9180XLQ-0 On then off then on

2 problems- When starting it goes on then off with a strange sound in the control area then comes on & completes the time until today it comes on then goes off & doesn't come on but sounds like the switch continues to cycle trying to come on;timer continues to run.
Another problem- when operating there is a vibration that is louder that normal. It sounds like it is coming from the upper part of the microwave. occasionally it stops but not for very long.

Posted by on

  • tracye333 Apr 27, 2009

    Microwave worked one day then the next it didn't. The timer still runs but the microwave clicks on & off, light & fan clicks on & off , on & off.

  • William Miller
    William Miller May 11, 2010

    Can you post a video with sound?

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5 Suggested Answers

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Rangehood Microwave Loud Humming

Sounds like you just fried your magnetron. Normally when they go bad, they make a very loud noise like what you described. The smell concerns me because you may have ruined the waveguide as well. If the magnetron burns through the protective painted surface of the waveguide, the waveguide is ruined. In most microwave ovens this means replacing the entire unit because the waveguide is not replaceable. Putting a new magnetron in a damaged waveguide will result in the same arcing and eventual failure. In addition to the magnetron, the following components are part of the same high voltage network: HV Transformer HV Diode HV Capacitor Magnetron Thermal Cut-Out Any one of these components could have also been damaged. I DO NOT recommend taking any voltage measurements inside the HV network. Potentials of over 4000 volts can be reached and make it very dangerous for the do-it-yourselfer. Taking resistance readings with the unit unplugged is strongly encouraged. If you decide to pursue a repair, inspect the magnetron tip and inside of the waveguide first. If the magnetron is melted and/or there are burn marks inside the waveguide, a new microwave may be a in order. This actually may be a better option than an expensive repair. I hope you find this advice helpful.

Posted on Jul 31, 2007

SOURCE: Whirlpool GMC305PD -- Thee beeps and won't start

Worked great!! I bought a new fuse for $4.50 and replaced it and the microwave works again....light is still not working but I'm ok with that!! Thanks!!!!

Posted on Mar 27, 2008

SOURCE: No power from Whirlpool.

The problem was a defective switch. There are 3 switches on mine. 1 on the top door latch, and 2 on the bottom. one of the switches on the bottom connected the power and neutral together, unless it was activated at the same time as the other 2, causing the breaker to trip or the internal fuse to blow. When unhooking the wire going from this switch to the other switch, everything works great now. Though I still need to replace the switch.

And for Basic 1. Yes my microwave did have a fuse in it it's ceramic, I got a pack of them at Radio Shack 4 for 3$ 250V 20 Amp. There should be a wiring diagram inside the microwave, mine was inside a black bag, so it may be hard to see.

Mine was up top next to the fuse behind the Plastic Grill and then a small metal grill. Some are behind the control panel, to fix this remove the screw at the top and then slide the control panel up and it should unhinge.

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

reg501
  • 413 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Microwave

The magnetron has failed and has damaged the waveguide. This type of failure is generally unrepairable. First look in your owners manual for specific warranties, then contact Whirlpool and explain to them what has happened.

If you need further assistance, let me know
Regards,
reg501

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool(GH7145XF2-0) does not work occasionally

That's how it would sound if you were cooking on a power level less than full power.

If you enter the cooking time and hit Start, it should cook at full power by default and not cycle like you describe.

If you are using some sensor cook setting or automatic type cooking setting, it may cycle like that normally.

The first thing to try is a "hard reset". Unplug it from the power line for a minute, plug it back in, set the clock, then try again.

Let us know if the hard reset doesn't fix it.

If you don't have your manual, you can download it free here. Check the lower right area to enter your model. number.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

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Sounds like the bulb shorted, which is very common, and the first time it blew the fuse.

It sounds like when you put the new fuse in and tried it again, the bulb was still shorted, and this time it damaged the board.

We see (and repair) thisa lot. The problem is on the control panel, whichwe regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about aweek.

Atour Web site, we have a videoavailable showing how to remove a typicalover the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure oftenoccurs when a bulb goes out and the filamentshorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without firstunplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such afailure on the controller.

This can often alsoaffect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can beinoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our serviceand critical safety information and disassembly information is at oursite, and our link is at ourlisting hereon FixYa.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of yourfull model number) for more information & help.

We'rehappy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate yourthoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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