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I have an old set of "fisher studio standard DS826 speakers. The bass drivers work but the mid and tweeters don't work on either speakers, am I looking at possible bad crossover caps?

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SOURCE: Car stereo crossovers

you should be able to remove the passive in-line crossover, but since it is blocking everything below 3500 hz, there is no need. leaving the passive crossover in place will also help protect the tweeters if something fails in your setup as any amped frequency below 3500 can seriously damage them.

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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SOURCE: I Have just bought a

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SOURCE: Wiring diagrams for installing tweeters and crossovers in a door

try 12voltresource.com or google "wiring diagrams for car audio"

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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SOURCE: The diagram for the SPS-600C tweeter hooked up in

no, just trim them down and tape them up.

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

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Speakers specifications


ES 315 is 200W RMS
60-15KHz but not sure if this is -10db or -3db as it doesn't say
15in heavy duty bass driver, 8in specially designed mid range and 4in tweeter.
34.5Kg 730mm x 620mm x 375mm

These are a very old design and not very efficient and you probably would get better value from a cheap new pair.

Feb 04, 2014 | Behringer Music

2 Answers

Why is there four plugs on the back of speakers?


With four plug you will have a jumper from on plug to the other. (e.g. Positive to positive and negative to negative.) This is for single connection (two wires.) If you use two connections (four wires) you take out the jumpers. the bottom pair is normally for the bass and the top for treble. This is to make the speakers clearer, and sound better. As for louder,? I don't know some people think it does some don't. With better clarity of sound, you do get the feeling of it being louder.

Apr 27, 2012 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

I put a sub in my 2002 Altima but when I turn it up the bass cracks on the door speakers??? What do I do to get all the bass on the sub


Hi Ethan,

What you're looking for is called a "crossover". A crossover is an electronic filter for an audio or speaker circuit. In an audio circuit, a crossover is used to prevent or pass certain frequencies or a range of frequencies from passing through it. Since your sub will reproduce the bass or low frequencies, you don't want other speakers to reproduce them. A band pass filter on your door speakers will do this for you. A band pass filter passes only a range or "band" of frequencies and blocks those that are above and below the range or band of frequencies selected. Installing a band pass filter will prevent the very high & very low frequencies from getting to the door /dash speakers. Likewise, you should consider connecting a low pass filter to your subs, too. The low pass filters work a little differently from of the way band pass filters work - they only allow low frequencies to get to the sub - blocking all the other higher frequencies (your other speakers are better suited to reproduce those). Lastly, you would install a high pass filters on tweeters. Tweeters are designed to reproduce only the high frequencies - sending mid and low frequencies to them is wasting power and can cause damage to them.

You purchase the filters for specific crossover points (the block / unblocked point) as determined by the individual speakers. If a sub has a frequency response of 20Hz - 100Hz, a low pass filter of 100Hz would be ideal. Remaining filters would need to begin at 100Hz - assuming the mid-range speakers have a frequency response beginning at 100Hz. A band pass filter of 100Hz - 3KHz would fit the bill nicely if the mid-range speakers go up to 3Khz Match the high end of the band pass to the high end of the frequency response of the mid-range speakers. Next, a high pass filter at 3KHz would allow only the high frequencies to your tweeters. Basically, you want to have the entire audible range 20Hz - 20KHz covered by the speakers and have the crossover points that match the frequency response ranges of the speakers.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Apr 12, 2012 | Pioneer Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

One of my MR8's has only its tweeter working, im guessing the bass driver might be blown? How can i test this though and be sure it is the bass driver and not just a simple electrical fault?


Open the unit and remove one wire from one of the woofer terminals and using an ohmmeter check the resistance between the terminals. It probably should be between 6 and 16 ohms... they don't give the specs on the speaker... if it is very high or infinite resistance, the voice coil is blown and you be re-coning or buying new speaker. These are close in speakers and intended for a small room for studio listening while mixing. If the speaker is OK, then the bass amp in the cabinet has a failure... pray, as that is cheaper to repair than a speaker.

Sep 22, 2011 | Mackie MR8 150W 8 Active Two-Way Studio...

1 Answer

Do i have to remove the pin between the two speaker treminals on my old mission 780 speakers before i bi wire them


Yes, the two sets of terminals are for the tweeter and bass driver.

When you bi-wire you want the low frequencies to go only to the bass driver and the high frequencies to go to the tweeter..

Please see this link for more information:
http://www.brilliancehifi.co.uk/how-to-bi-wire-speakers.htm

Please rate my answer if you find this useful.

Thanks,

Chris

Mar 02, 2011 | Mission 780 Main / Stereo Speaker

1 Answer

No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

Feb 23, 2011 | M-Audio BX5a Speaker

1 Answer

Only bass driver working on the pair. tweeter and mid range cones not working.


hi,
check the tweeter and mid range. its coil may become faulty.
for checking the speakers carefully remove the speakers one by one, remove its connections.
and check the speakers with a AAA cell. is it producing cracking sound. if not the speakers coils are burned.
ok

Feb 01, 2011 | Mission 782 Main / Stereo Speaker

1 Answer

Can't get wharfedale melton 2 tweeter to work. Looked inside cabinet and need advice on internal wiring please. These are very old but one works perfectly and the 12'' bass driver on the problem speaker is...


The tweeter has burned out and cannot be salvaged. I also own a pair of (ex) Melton 2s. In the beginning Wharfedale were good at supplying spares (see www.wharfedale.co.uk for contact info and advice). A few years ago after my cat destroyed the 12 inch unit in one, i invested in new insides, including state of the art 12 inch woofers, 4 inch mid range and 1inch tweeters with a good 3 way crossover. The cabinet is great so consider asking a techie friend to do this for you. Please don't just cut out and connect to amp speaker wires! You will get terrible sound and risk ruining both amp and speakers! Best regards Karl (karl@simpson.nom.fr)

May 12, 2010 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

How to take the speaker apart to repair or replace tweeter


Take off/unscrew the upper bass/mid , insert your hand and gently twist the tweeter magnet assembly anti-clockwise about a quarter of a turn, and remove thru upper bass hole Peter Speakerworks.com.au

Mar 17, 2010 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

No sound from mids and bass


there is prolly just a short in the wire somewhere

Nov 28, 2007 | RCA RS2656 Shelf System

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