1993 GMC Suburban K1500 Air Condition Fan and vent choice problem
1) ac/htr fan operation is intermittant, works great when it works but the switch doesn't always turn it up, down, or on. I think its a relay fault but I cannot find the relay. Where is it.
2) tick, tick, tick, tick noise from under glove box area when I start up, shut down, or alter the ac vent choice controls. How do I fix this?
My blower motor fan will shut off and on by itself, without even touching it. When I am on a bumpy road, it will usually turn itself back on. I had the same problem on my Ford Crown Vic. It turned out to be the blower motor speed controller. But my Chev silverado has a resistor pack. Dont know if that is the problem or not.
Re: 1993 GMC Suburban K1500 Air Condition Fan and vent...
This is common gm prob with your vehicle. the control unit needs to be replaced. and as for the resistor pack im not sure where you are looking, but in the dash in the same area as the heater controls is a gray or silver box and this is for the radio.
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Sounds Like you have a faulty catalytic converter, and or a clogged EGR valve. you will also notice a loss of power and sometimes a odder catalytic converter will need to be replaced. The EGR valve is easy to remove and clean out the carbon with intake cleaner.
To properly diagnose your overheating problem we need to rule out some things. First: Is there enough coolant/antifreeze in the radiator? Don't just look inside the plastic overflow bottle, but remove the radiator cap (when the engine is cold) and look inside the radiator. You should be able to physically see the fluid level if it is at its proper level.
Most cars and trucks will hold 1 1/2-2 gallons of coolant and water mixture. If you have to add more than a pint of fluid you should have the cooling system pressure tested for a leak. If you see any obvious fluid loss on the ground or in the engine compartment, you should also have the system tested for leaks. Second: If no coolant leak or low fluid level is present, then determine when the overheating complaint occurs. If the engine overheats while at a stop or idle only: Most front wheel drive cars use an electric cooling fan motor located in front or behind the radiator.
The function of the cooling fan is to improve airflow across the radiator at stops and low speeds. The fan is controlled by sensors that regulate the engine temperature and additional load that might be placed on the engine. The air conditioning compressor will require the cooling fan to operate at idle as long as the compressor is on. A quick way to check the cooling fan operation is to turn on the air conditioner. The cooling fan should come on with the air conditioner compressor. Some cars will have two electric fans, one is for the radiator and the other is the air conditioner condenser fan. Usually the radiator fan is closer to the middle of the radiator. The radiator fan is responsible for engine cooling, and the condenser fan is responsible for increasing air conditioning efficiency at idle and low speed. If your vehicle does not have an electric cooling fan on the radiator it will have a belt driven fan blade and fan clutch. This fan should be pulling a large amount of warm to hot air across the radiator onto the engine. What you want to determine with either fan situation is that there is ample airflow across the radiator at idle. The radiator is the primary heat exchange for the engine, and airflow is crucial. What if the engine overheats while at high speeds on the freeway? Again, airflow and coolant circulation are crucial. At 55 MPH we can assume you have ample airflow across the radiator, so proper antifreeze circulation is the thing to inspect. I compare overheating at 55MPH to jogging with a sock in your mouth. The faster and longer you jog, the more air you are going to require, and with a sock in your mouth you are going to have to breath extra hard to maintain the proper amount of air to keep you going. At 55MPH the water pump is pumping a large amount of hot antifreeze throughout the cooling system. If there is a restriction in the system like a kinked radiator hose, a restricted radiator, or a stuck thermostat, it will produce the same affect as the sock in the mouth scenario.
Rust and water calcification can accumulate in the radiator and drastically reduce the flow of coolant at high speeds. Removing the radiator from the vehicle for disassembly and cleaning or radiator replacement are the only two real cures for a clogged radiator. Using a can of "radiator flush" additive might help as preventive maintenance, but will probably just be a waste of time and money trying to correct a restricted radiator.
When the A/C is not in use there is still condensation as your compressor will run at different times. Defrost is one, of course to cool the car is another. The condesation coming from that drain should be perfectly normal. My GMC Suburban drains all the time as well, and its usually because I leave my knob on the defrost setting even though the fan itself is off the compressor will still run as its hardwired to do so. If the compressor runs, the coil in your car will become cold resulting in the water you see. Hope this helps, thanks!
Check the hoses to see if each hose is warm, usually 1 is warmer than the other, that enter the heater core from the engine. If both are warm issue is inside vehicle, possible vacuum operated valve for venting or a cable, sometimes items drop down from dash, like toys, pencils, etc that could stop the action of the vents that adjust heat. If 1 is cold then look for a valve possibly inside engine compartment on one of the heater hose runs, either vacuum line fell off, cable fell off or valve could be defective if no heat passes. If no valve, then chances are the heater core itself is clogged and needs to be replaced. This is all assuming that you have proper coolant level, the thermostat is functioning correctly, and your water pump is working, those should be verified as well when inspecting your heating issue.
I would start with checking the fuel flow at the filter. Twist open the bleed valve on the top of the filter while you are cranking the engine. If fuel is squirting out, then you are getting fuel past the filter. now you will check the injectors to ensure they are getting fuel. You will need a couple of wrenches to break open the line. You can start with the easies ones to access on the driver's side. Be sure you hold the injector tight while you break the line loose from the top. Just loosen it 1 or 2 turns. Crank the motor and see if you are getting fuel to the injector. If you are getting fuel to the injectors, then we have eliminated a fuel problem.
Are your glow plugs cycling correctly? Every time the 6.5 diesel prepares to start, the glow plugs will cycle. The first time the engine is turned on after it has completely cooled off, they will cycle for 10-20 sec depending on the air temp. That clicking sound bothers me like the relay switch for the glow plugs isn't working. How many miles on truck? Have the glow plugs been changed? Has the relay switched been replaced?
The last area to check will be the air intake system. Pull the air filter housing open and remove the filter. Ensure it is clean and no debris got past it and is obstructing the air to the turbo. (My brother had a filter come apart and plug up the turbo.) Don't buy cheap air filters!
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
I have a 94 K1500 6.5 turbo with 282,456 miles on it. Runs like a champ. Out pulls my new Ford.
My apologies for the delay in answering this question. I realize it has been over 4-months since you posted your question. I just joined this site in Nov09 and I am providing free answers. In the last 4-months, due to the bad economic situation, we have seen an astronomical increase (+50%) in the number of questions posted.
I'm going back to questions that were never answered and answering them.
(back of vehicle)
Again my sincere apologies.
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