Question about Whirlpool Duet Steam WFW9700V Front Load Washer / Dryer
When I dry bedsheets on the sheet cycle in the companion dryer to the front loading Whirlpool Duet washer, they just keep getting all balled up in each other and don't get all the way dry, even after an hour of drying, Is there anything I can do to prevent or minimize this?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Try not to wash large items with small items the large items like sheet will twist around the small item. causeing twisting and wrinkling. Also If you are overloading the clothes or underloading the clothes they will come out wrinkled. I would try to do some testing wash a load of only towels then wash a load of only t-shirts and other light weight items that you may have. Then do just a load of your jeans. What happens? Please let me know
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
SOURCE: Sheets twisted in a tight wad
hi there......this is usually caused by older dryers which didnt have a reversing tumble facility...or if a lifter is missing from the drum..check that your dryer is or is not a reverse action....and if it is a reverse action that it actually does reverse...you may have a programmer fault if its not reversing
regards Sir Galahad
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Many times, many types of Dryer have a variety of paddles. There are so many different ones, without your model, it's hard to know which your has, however, I have known many people that have had these problems.
Solution: I have heard and seen a couple tennis balls or even a soft pair of tennis shoes used in the dryer whilst drying clothes keep this from happening. (again, the paddles make all the difference) I myself have always had Maytag, but even they are not what they used to be, however, the shoe trick works when we dry our large blankets and comforters.
Solution: Gosh, there could be many issues, but the first, I would think you either have too small exhaust tube, or it is kinked, smashed or the wrong type. Even the smallest of kink or flattening on many exhaust tubes will greatly effect the output of the exhaust. The only other thing could be overall length of exhaust, and possible clogging in the tube. Have a idea for a fix there as well. (if this is the rpoblem.
If the drying time has anything to do with my immediate thoughts (had similar problem when I just moved and reinstalled my own Maytag) I have a great fix to keep it from happening.
Whirlpool has been a good name for some years, in fact, they own Maytag now, so I am sure we can solve your issue as long as it isn't a problem with your particular unit itself as they do make a lemon evey now and again.
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have not taken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then you need to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should take place. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causes for your dryer to fail.
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