To a cutler/hammer box. Only issue is how do you tell the difference between ground bar and neutral bar. Assuming the much larger guage wires go to the ground bar. Problem is wires that look like ground go to both.
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Re: hooking up generator switch panel
On a residence, the ground bar and the nutural bar may be hooked togethervia a ground screw on the case.
In that case it matters now which side you use for the nutural and which for the grounds. Just make sure to keep all of the whites on the white side and the greens on the green side.
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the BLACK wire is your hot wire that goes to the breaker, the WHITE wire is your neutral bar connector & yes your bare [brass color] wire is your ground only. always use insulated tools when making any electrical conections. be safe.
20 amp 120 or 240? All 20 amps 120 must be 12 gauge wire for all connections on that circuit.. no exceptions
120- Bring wire into box securely as is done with all the other wires. Shut the breaker to "off". wire the black wire from the screw on the back of the breaker. white wire to the bar with all the other whites. copper to the same bar or separate grounding bar if available. snap breaker into place. turn breaker on
When Working with Household Electricity you want to always keep in mind that the BLACK wire ALWAYS carries DEATH. What I mean by this is that working with a Single Phase Circuit (one that uses 120VAC) the only wire that should be carrying a voltage is the BLACK one, the other 2 wires (typically the White Neutral and Green Ground) should both be electrically connected to Earth Ground (usually by being attached to your water pipe.)
It is also possible that your hot tub may use more than 20 Amps.
Sounds like the breakers are mis-wired. This is a common mistake with those kind of breakers. The white wire that is permanently attached to the breaker (usually coiled) connects to the neutral bar in the panel. Look closely on the breaker, you will see two terminals. The white (circuit) wire that goes out to load connects ONLY to the neutral terminal _on_ the breaker itself, _not_ to the neutral bar in the panel.
It will fit, the extra bump out on the back makes it a bit harder to hook the back locking tab before you push it on the bussing. Also, make sure no wires are in the way obstructing the bump out since it hangs out further than the standard breakers. The most common problem is the bump out making it hard to hook the locking tab onto the outer rail. Make sure the breaker is in the off position, then try holding it more flat as you insert it keeping it close to the bussing. This will help keep the extra bump out from obstructing the locking tab from hooking the back rail. Once it's hooked on the back rail you can push it on the bussing like normal.
You mentioned a 8-3 cable suppling power to the sub-panel. I am assuming you have a 8-3 WITH ground or 4 conductors, black, red, white AND ground.
In the sub-panel do not bond the neutral bar to the box or ground bar. If there is a green bonding screw on the neutral bar...remove it. If you have only one (1) neutral bar add another bar for your grounds and bond this bar to the box. Keep the neutrals isolated from the grounds.
I hope this has helped. If you need additional information please send me a follow-question.