Question about Washing Machines
Serial number is 0703 017 020. Need to overhaul washing machine. Need a parts list information sheet or a workshop manual please.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: remove agitator washing machine
Pull off fabric softener dispenser, then there will be a screw holding agitator in middle you will need a rachet, socket, and at least a 10" extension. Lossen and remove screw and pull from bottum of agitator.
Posted on Jul 05, 2010
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
The Sears site for your washer may have a section on the gearcase. Check in that section for a Neutral Drain repair kit.
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
OR ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Aug 30, 2010
There are manuals available but these only tell you about the parts of the machine and the different cycles etc. Its a workshop manual that you need and these are not discussed anywhere on the net, Im not sure these were ever produced.
Posted on Sep 12, 2010
The following advice is for replacing the "Agitator Dogs" on Kenmore and Whirlpool TOP LOADER style washing machines. This simple repair can save you a fortune in repair costs as the replacement parts are very inexpensive at a cost of less than $10. The replacement kit part number is 80040. You can order on line at various appliance parts websites, or use this part number and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer.
What are "Agitator Dogs"? These are small plastic pieces (usually 4) that are located under the agitator center cap that grip the agitator and turn it during the wash cycle. They can (and do) wear out dependent upon the use of the washer. If you are in the habit of doing large load sizes frequently, or wash large items such blankets or afghans, this can wear the teeth off and reduce the life of the agitator dogs.
SYMPTOMS REQURING REPLACEMENT: The agitator fails to turn during the wash cycle, or will not turn with a heavy load. The timer will run normally through all cycles, and you will be able to hear the gearcase (transmission) engage and run. The washer will also drain normally. The only indication that something is wrong will be the agitator slipping or not turning at all. The result will be clothes that do not wash properly and will sit on the bottom of the wash tub.
To replace the Agitator Dogs, follow these steps:
1.Remove the agitator center cap by either pulling straight up or gently placing a flat blade screwdriver into a slot located in the cap.
2.If the agitator is equipped with an inner cap with a handle, remove this as well by pulling straight up.
3.Remove the center bolt of the agitator. You will have either a 7/16" hex bolt or a recessed square plastic nut. If you have the square recessed type, use a 3/8" to ½" ratchet adapter to remove.
4.Remove the agitator by grasping the bottom flange and carefully pulling straight up. Try to keep all the parts assembled while doing this, so do not pull too hard. This will make this repair much easier.
5.Place your hand over the top of the agitator and separate the upper portion of the agitator from the lower portion and turn the top half over in your hand. The agitator dog assembly will come out in your hand.
6.With the agitator dog assembly in your hand, lay the rest of the agitator aside. Pay careful attention to how the dogs are installed. Remove the worn dogs and reinstall new ones. It's that simple.
7.With all the dogs replaced and the assembly still in your hand, place the upper part of the agitator over the top of it, upside down, ensuring the inner assembly tabs align correctly.
8.Now keep your hand over the agitator top to hold all the pieces together and turn the entire assembly over (upright position).
9.Carefully align and reinsert the upper portion of the agitator to the lower portion. Again, making sure the two pieces align correctly.
10.Place the entire agitator assembly back on the gearcase shaft and reinstall center nut. NOTE: DO NOT over tighten the nut, or the agitator will not spin correctly. Just make the nut snug. Reinstall center cap and inner cap (if equipped).
These instructions should give you the basics on how to perform this repair. Since there are various agitator types in use by Whirlpool and Kenmore, assembly can vary.
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Posted on Sep 18, 2010
Even if I am not referring to single parts numbers, the comment below is not just an educated guess. I checked the schematics for your commercial top loader. You will find all parts I am referring to listed in the page linked at the bottom of my comment.
The belt worn or broken will not cause no spin, the machine will not spin and not agitate if the belt is broken.
About the motor. A defective motor may cause washer not spinning, but the fault is not very common.
In some uncommon case the problem can be the main control unit (CCU), but that is also unusual.
There are parts that fail quite more commonly, and that are typically causing no spin.
When machine drains completely but the cycle does not advance to spin it is usually either drain problem, door latch or pressure switch. Even if the machine is draining, the drain filter must also be tested.
Before getting into Spin, the machine control performs a double check on door latch. A defective door lock system can cause no spin. The door lock can be tested by jumping the door lock microswitch contacts.
Before advancing to spin, the central control unit checks also the drain status, using the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and 'gives the OK' to advance after drain is complete. The pressure switch is difficult to test (testing is done reading impedance with tub full and empty). The pressure switch is however a not-too-expensive part, and it is usually replaced without testing.
Have a look at the drain hose and drain filter to ensure that there is no blockage. Check hoses to drain pump and ensure that the pump is working.
Check the lid switch. This can be tested by running a cycle with its contacts jumped.
Replace the pressure switch, that is most likely the problem.
Test the variable speed motor and test the central control unit if the above did not fix the problem.
Here all parts and diagrams for Kleenmaid washers.
Posted on Nov 18, 2010
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