Question about GE WHSE5240D Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Washing Machine Will not Spin
Every one needs to know that the expensive parts are under warranty for ten years the outer drum front and rear, the pulley, the inner drum. GE sent me all four parts retail value 1200.00 on their web site, got them today. Before I under take this project I am wondering if any one know if the drum seal the giant O ring ( the one between the two halves) should be replaced or can the old one be used?
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
SOURCE: Wash machine agitates but won't
Yes, the problem is the pump filter which is hidden behind the lower front panel. To access the filter, unscrew three screws at the bottom of the panel and carefully remove the lower front panel. Make sure to unplug the machine. With the panel removed you will see the pump filter. Get a bucket and some towels ready, because when you open the filter, you may get a gallon plus of water coming out. GE failed to put this in the use and care manual for the 6260. But low an behold, GE put an access door and explicit instructions on cleaning the pump filter in the updated 6400.
You may have burned out your washer pump. That is what happened to me. The machine would not drain or spin properly and so I kept pushing the blinking start/pause button to get it going again. Then it finally did not drain at all. I installed a new pump and with the cleaned filter, the machine worked like new. For some, simply cleaning the filter allows the pump to work properly. As the filter gets clogged the pump has to work harder and harder to pump out the water. When this happens the cycle times get extended . One symptom of a clogged filter is the final minute (spin cycle) takes much longer. Obviously this is a "design flaw" that GE "fixed" in the recent version of the 6260.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
First plug off the wall. Open the machine from behind to examine if any shock-absorbers(known as dampers) or springs have come off or broken. Your dealer could help with spares. But you could do the job yourself.
RepairClinic.com (which is good)
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
It won't drain
If your washer won't drain, check these:
It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
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It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.
If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.
Check this link to replace the inlet valve:
Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.
Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.
Please check the link below:
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