Question about Kenmore Dryers
Every time we run the machine we get an OL trouble code. We tried the self diagnostic and it's supposed to go from C1 through C9 before it's finished and my washer shut off after C1.
1. Unplug the power cord
2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.
3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn't get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.
4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outter edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.
5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pryed off with a small screwdriver.
6. Remove the center screw under the cap.
7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.
8. Remove the 6 phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don't drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.
9. Remove the plastic top gear.
10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.
11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outter lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.
12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.
13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. I had to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inned bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.
14. Reassemble in the reverse order and your done. Check to make sure the basket can easily float now by pulling up on it from the top inside lips.
Posted on Dec 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Connect white (test lead) and black (ground lead) wires that are branched from harness approximately eight inches from ECM. After leads are grounded, the "Check Engine" light will flash the diagnostic trouble codes. The DTC's are indicated by the flashing CEL.
FLASH, FLASH, pause, FLASH, FLASH, FLASH = Code 23.
If only one diagnostic trouble code is stored, the DTC will repeat continuously until test leads are disconnected. If more than one diagnostic trouble code is stored, each DTC will repeat three times, starting with the lowest, then proceed to the next DTC. After all DTC's have been displayed, the pattern will repeat.I-MARK 84-85
Connect male and female test leads taped into wire harness near ECM. After leads are connected, the "Check Engine" lamp will flash the trouble codes. The DTC's are indicated by the flashing CEL.
FLASH, FLASH, pause, FLASH, FLASH, FLASH = Code 23.
If only one diagnostic trouble code is stored, the DTC will repeat continuously until test leads are disconnected. If more than one diagnostic trouble code is stored, each DTC will repeat three times, starting with the lowest, then proceed to the next DTC. After all DTC's have been displayed, the pattern will repeat.
86-87 Impulse located near the ECM connector, is used to actuate the Engine Control Module (ECM) trouble code memory within the module. Two terminals (A and C) of this connector are used to activate the diagnostic trouble code system in the ECM. With the ignition switch turned On, engine Off, connect a jumper wire between terminals A and C. The "Check Engine" lamp will begin by flashing a DTC 12. DTC 12 = flash, pause, flash, flash. There will be a longer pause and a code 12 will repeat two more times. This code indicates the self-diagnostic system is operating. The cycle will then repeat until the engine is started or the ignition is switched Off. In most cases, DTC's will be checked with the engine running since no DTC's other than DTC 12 or 51 will be present without the engine running. Remove jumper wire from ALDL connector before starting engine. Reconnect jumper wire after engine is running.
Throttle Body Fuel InjectionThe ECM test connection is located under the center console.
A built-in, self diagnostic system will identify problems in the throttle body fuel injection system. When a problem is detected, the diagnostic system will illuminate the "Check Engine" light.
When the engine is started, the Check Engine light should turn off.. If the light remains lit, the self diagnostic has detected a problem. To determine where the problem exists, ground the "Test" terminal of the connector with the ignition On, engine Off and watch the check engine light. Each DTC will flash three times (lowest to highest).
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