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I have a GX345 with a bad upper main bearing, can this bearing be replaced or is the engine shot?

2004 John Deere GX 345 with 388 hrs on it, starts and runs ok, just gradually started making an engine noise like a slight knocking sound when increase / decrease rpm, so I took the bottom oil case off and I noticed some play in the upper main bearing. Can this bearing be replaced or do I need to buy a whole different engine?

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  • John Deere Master
  • 8,404 Answers

Whose engine in on the machine? If you can get the parts, you can probably fix the engine. ... let me rephraise that, if parts are available, the engine can be repaired. You can do it if you are engine savy and if you do the reading first. Take lots of pics and pay attention to what you are doing and it is doable ... if you can get the parts.

Posted on Dec 05, 2012

  • Dean Erickson Apr 07, 2013

    I replaced upper and lower bearings now it runs good.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: john deere 2020 water pump repair?

Hello:

From your Description it Sounds like a Bad Water Pump Bearing and Seal.
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Engine and Mower at this Site Addy, http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt and Enter the Model Numbers and Click Find. Then Select your Model from the Search Results Area. Then Select the Sectional File. Then Select the Section of the Mower you Wish to View Online. *You can Drag the View Windows for Better Viewing.*
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

John

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: I have a John Deere Riding lawn mower which starts

Hello roobar2009:

>>From your Description it Sounds like a Carburetor Problem, a Bad Fuel Filter or Bad Gas.
>>If you have Changed the Filter and the Gas and the Problem is Still happening, then
>>The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run.
>>If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 133 Answers

SOURCE: I have John Deere GX345. It does not start

Look for a small silver box with 1 wire on it mounted to the motor. It is a temp sensor and will keep it from firing...Just had to replace mine...

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

rwvanlue
  • 486 Answers

SOURCE: John Deere Gx75, kawasaki 9hp motor- oil in carb!

A very common problem with the GX series with Kawasaki engines. The carburetor 'inlet needle' sticks open and fills the crankcase with fuel. When checking the oil, it can be difficult to see the gasoline and the level appears to be OK. Remove the dipstick and smell the oil, you may detect a gasoline smell. Also, drain the oil, and you may find much more fluid than you expect.
The solution on newer mowers was to install an 'in-line' shut-off valve to keep the fuel from syphoning into the carburetor. The inlet needle and seat in the carburetor is NOT replaceable, so a new carburetor is the ultimate solution, but VERY expensive. Installing and using an in-line shut-off valve is more affordable.
Also, this situation is common when machine is transported on a trailer, as the bouncing causes the needle/seat to leak. When transporting, always turn off the fuel supply to the carburetor.

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: John Deere 115 lawn tractor - won't start.

I have a 115 john deere tractor that runs but the engine will not run smooth I've put a new fuel cap on it a new pump and clean out the carb.

Posted on Aug 18, 2010

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