Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer
Problem with Whirlpool Washer W10200890B. Normal Wash cycle, no extra rinse switch on, goes through cycle and begins the extra rinse and then stops without spinning so that the clothes are super wet. You can turn the dial to a spin cycle and it works fine, so that seems to me it is not a mechanical problem but something within the dial switch.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Possible your belt is loose; you have to unscrew the back after disconnecting electrical connection from wall socket. If the belt "gives" more than half an inch, you have to loosen the motor bolts and push motor upwards, then tighten the bolts very well. Try spin only to check, before closing the behind. It shd spin very fast.
Posted on Apr 25, 2007
SOURCE: Washer not spinning/agitat
This problem is usually attributed to a broken motor coupling. The following link provides step-by-step instructions on how to replace one:
The motor coupling is a small 3-piece component that is installed behind the drive motor and couples it to the transmission. It is common for these small couplers to break as they wear out. The key symptom in determining the cause is the fact the washer will not agitate, but still drains. The reason is because your drain pump is mounted on the front of the drive motor and will still run as long as the drive motor is running. The part number is provided in the link I gave you. A replacement coupler can be purchased at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com or repairclinic.com. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price. Make sure you "Search by Part Number" when looking up the part. This shouldn't cost more than $20. If you do not wish to order on line, take the part number I provided and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. This is a common item they should have in their inventory.
If you have questions along the way, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
The code on your machine stands for 'Long Drain'. Ld flashes if it takes longer than 5 minutes to pump out water to a point where the operating pressure switch resets. I would bet that the bath mats left a bunch of stuff stuck in the recirculation pump hose, or pump itself, and the water cannot be drained fast enough. Check the intake and exit hoses of the recirc pump. It's easiest to get to the pump through the front panel of the machine(click here). Looks like this: click here. Hope this helps.
(Definitely get under there and check to make sure the pump hoses are not clogged. At $129 it's an expensive fix for a $10 bath mat that clogged up the hose with fuzz. 'know what I'm sayin'' :o) )
BTW, I have the maintenance manual & have experience at replacing the recirc. pump, control board, motor board, touchpad, & lid switch so far.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
Sounds as if the drive hub which the tub is attached to maybe free spinning. Not an expensive part but does require a special tool called a spanner wrench to remove and replace.
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
Testimonial: "The issue turned out to be a worn out clutch. The fix was actually to use a couple of dimes to increase the pressure on the clutch piece so that it would engage the drive hub. 2.5 years later and the thing is still working."
The most common cause of the symptoms you describe is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping after the wash cycle, failing to advance to the rinse cycle and no draining.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.
If you have questions, need additional assistance, please post back with your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub opening under the washer lid), so I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Feb 13, 2010
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