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I have a lanzar sd32mu stereo its new when i took it out of box the wiring harness has a connector at the end where there should be just wiring usialy there is just wires this has a connector

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Looks as if you did not get a new unit.
The wires should look like this (top right side of picture) when new...

http://app.infopia.com/img/image/fp/VPID/1331418/img2/img.jpg

You have an aftermarket plug installed, which means it was in a vehicle already.

Need more help, just ask!

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

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Temporary wired a clarion px 3310 for car installation, all was ok so turned off @ the head-unit and proceeded to install stereo with permanent wiring. Now...stereo installed, switch power on...nothing,try...


Here is the breakdown of the steps that you should take to pinpoint the issue.
  1. The first thing you should do is check the fuse for the radio. then you want to check the ground wire. Most people would think that if its not powering up then it must be the power wire. Not always the case.
  2. After you ensure that there is a solid ground between the chassis and the stereo you are going to want to check your Battery positive wire (power). Best way to do this is to use a test light. one end is clipped to a ground and the other end is a needle like probe, remove the harness from the radio and find where the power wire is fed into on the harness and probe it and see if you get the bulb to light.
  3. If the bulb does not light up, the next step is would be to check over the wires and see if there are any bare wires or any shorts. If there are wire connections that are made by electrical tape, take them apart and use actual wire connectors.
  4. Have the ignition in ACC on while probing.
  5. The last thing I could tell you and not stress enough. Be very careful when you are in there, people just don't understand just how tied into a vehicles electrical system a stereo is.
  6. Good Luck.

Sep 19, 2011 | Clarion Car Speakers & Subwoofers

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Installing a ptid-8960 power acoustik into my new 2011 mazda 3 what wires should connect or can i even install it without getting the wire harness adapter to make it like the same connections not quite...


You absolutely should use a wire harness for this installation. Not using one would require you to clip the wires to factory radio connector, making re-installation of the factory stereo nearly impossible. Even worse, you would have to wire the connector that came with your PTID-8960 deck to the clipped ends. This task would be nearly impossible, as the factory wiring is too short to extend out of the dashboard where you can work with it easily.

Save yourself the trouble.

I tried finding the exact item you will need, but it seems the Mazda 3 comes with stereo options that could affect which wire harness you'd require.

Here is a link to Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120707904/Mazda-Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=2977&tab=other_items

You can use their site to select your car and installed options, and they will return products compatible with your vehicle.

Jun 14, 2011 | Car Speakers & Subwoofers

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I want to know where and which cables to connection on my van


Thats pretty vague, but here is the basics:

Battery wire (red) should go from the battery of your van to the amp (+)
Ground wire (black) should go to the frame (metal) of your van and to the (-) of your amp

The blue wire should go from your amp to either the back of your stereo unit (remote accessory) or to the fuse box (accessory/ignition)

Left/Right audio should go to the subs.

If you are looking to install a new stereo into your van, they make a wiring harness that will fit the year and make of your van to get you going in no time.

All you do is buy that little wiring harness, and connect the wires on the back of your new stereo to the same colored wires on the harness, and plug the harness directly into your dash!

Super easy!

Hope this helps you out!

Feb 23, 2011 | Car Speakers & Subwoofers

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Tried installing a new stereo system and had it in and going but the speedo wouldnt work so took out the stereo and it would work again then tired replacing fuse in stereo as it had blown and tried once...


your best bet is to buy a chiltons book for your car from an auto parts store. also i might add: reconnect your wires to the factory plugg you cut off and buy a wiring harness from a car stero installer or radio shack for your car it will automaticaly adapt your original harness (which your having trouble with) to a standard wiring setup for an aftermarket stereo. then its all about maching colors :)

Jan 31, 2011 | Car Speakers & Subwoofers

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There are 4 connectors on each side of the speaker, how do i wire it so i can put the sub in the box so i can connect it to my amp?


There are 4 connectors on each side of the Problem with the Lanzar 15'' 2000 Watt Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer Driver for Small Enclosures Car Speaker. how do i wire it so i can put the sub in the box so i can connect it to my amp?

Dec 24, 2010 | Lanzar (MAXP154D) 15'' 2000 Watt Dual...

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Trying to install after market cd player in freightliner. need wiring diagram or wiring harness adapter. model # 12244075


i have got the same problem. took out factory stereo out of my 2005 m2 106. only to find all wires to be gray with no markings. it has a 12 pin connector. can anyone tell me the how to hook-up new regular 10 wire cd player

Aug 24, 2010 | Car Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

Need wiring diagram


Step 1 Understand the basics of all car stereo systems. A car stereo system consists of 4 main components and the wiring that connects them. These are the head unit, the main speakers, optional amplifiers and the subwoofers, which are also optional but generally considered a necessary part of any good system.
Step 2 Know that the core of any car stereo is the head unit, which is the cassette or CD player that goes in the dash. All the other components are connected to the head unit by at least one pair of wires.
Step 3 Know about car speakers. The main speakers are usually 2 in the front and 2 in the back, although with what are known as component speakers, each speaker is broken down into two speakers: one for the highs and one for the bass. Each speaker or speaker set (known as a channel) connects to the head unit via a pair of wires. Generally if you are installing a new head unit you want to install new speakers.
Step 4 Know about amplifiers. Amplifiers provide extra power to your speakers and/or extra channels of power for additional speakers. The most common use for an amplifier (amp) is to power subwoofers. The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire. This article assumes the use of a single amplifier connected to a pair of subwoofers. If you do not have these components simply ignore the steps specific to the amp, doing so will not affect the rest of your installation.
Step 5 Know about subwoofers. Subwoofers are part of any good stereo system. They provide the deep bass that small speakers cannot achieve. Subwoofers are connected to the amplifier which can usually be mounted right to the subwoofer box. If you do not have subwoofers you can simply ignore the steps specific to them.
Preparing for the installation
Step 1 Be properly prepared. This is extremely important since you do not want to realize you're missing something in the middle of the installation.
Step 2 Purchase the following: A car stereo wire harness which connects the existing wiring for your old head unit to your new one (this will be specific to BOTH the model and year of your car AND to the make of your new head unit); an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.
Step 3 Obtain a guide to removing the dash, doors panels (or whatever compartment the speakers are in), and floor molding of your car. You may be able to find a guide for this online. If not, you can get a repair manual for your car at most automotive stores and online).
Step 4 Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers to fit the job, pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, a utility knife, sand paper or a file, electrical tape, a 9-volt battery, and any other tools that the instructions for installing the head unit and your car guides specify.
Installation Process
Step 1 Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
Step 2 Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.

Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.

Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.

Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.
Step 3 Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.

If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.

Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.
Step 4 Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.
Step 5 Put the fuse in the fuse holder.
Step 6 Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.
Step 7 On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).
Step 8 In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.
Step 9 Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.
Step 10 Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.
Step 11 If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.
Step 12 Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.
Step 13
Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. That's all!

Good luck.

Mar 26, 2010 | Car Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

No power


Red is power (+12v)
Black is negative
Orange or Yellow is memory
Blue is for amplifer turn on signal
Then there will be 4 or 6 pairs wires with the same color which are the speaker wires. The solid colors are positive, the solid with a black stripe are negative.
You can get a cable harness for your car from Walmart and then all you need to do is match all the wires color for color to each other from the cable harness to the new stereo wires with **** splices and a crimping tool which you can also get from Walmart and that's it. Then all you need to do is connect the two old connector from the old car stereo to the new cable harness connector which is made for your car and there you go. After that you may need a dash kit which you can also get at Walmart..Hope this helps.

May 09, 2009 | Car Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

I need to install a kenwood cd player into my 2001 ford explorer step by step


goto the auto parts store and purchase a pair of stereo keys, fascia adaptor and wiring harness (you may need to get fascia and harness from a car audio store or circuit city.)
Then use the stereo keys to remove the factory stereo. Push them into the small holes on the front of the stereo push them slightly outwards and pull to release the stereo. Unplug all the connectors from back keeping track of where they fall.
Insert wiring harness into the stock wiring
attach fascia in regards to its packaged instructions.
Place cage from new stereo into the hole in the dash using the tabs on cage to secure it,
Attach stereo to other end of new harness along with aerial (may need adaptor for this also depending on the new head unit.)
Insert stereo into new cage and voila nice new stereo.

Nov 27, 2008 | Kenwood Car Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

Wiring my jvc kd-g331 to a 1996 vauxhall corsa


You can go to a place that installs car stereos and purchase a universal wiring harness for your car that will cost about $15 and allow you to do the wiring very easy without the need to know what every wire is for. This harness would be wired to the harness you got from JVC for your new radio and all you need to do is to match the colors of the JVC harness to the same colors of the universal harness that would then just plug right into the factory wiring harness for your car and then the other end plugs into the connector for your JVC radio. It is very easy and insures that you have all the proper wires connected to operate your radio and have full functions available for use.

If you require to know what each wire from the JVC harness is for, just ask.

I would be happy to offer you more help if you need it, just reply to this post and I will get back to you as soon as I am able.

If you found this free information to be useful a FixYa! rating would be appropiate and very much appreciated. After all, it is the only reward we get for helping people like yourself for free.

Thanks and good luck with your radio installation,

Dave

Sep 04, 2008 | JVC Car Speakers & Subwoofers

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