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I had the unit checked my an electrical shop and they said it must be the thermostat so I changed that but still no heat. The circuit is ok ,what else could be wrong?

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  • Dryers Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the model number of your unit?

Posted on Dec 03, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: No hot air

possible voltage issue be sure you have steady 240 at 2 outside screws on ac connection next ck timer quick ck unplug dryer remove console cover short large red and black wires together plug back in and turn on ..possible motor switch ..contacts in motor switch close as motor runs supplying one side of element with other 110 volts

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore HE3 electric Dryer does no heat.

check block where power cord attaches.

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: it wont heat at all.

OK, this will be a timer issue in this case. the timer mechanism has become unstable.

Replace the timer module or, control board.

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

  • 3741 Answers

SOURCE: My kenmore electric dryer is not heating

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: maytag DE7500 electric dryer

You need a voltmeter to check the continuity across the two terminals, it should be open. If there is no continuity the limit is bad..

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Posted on Jan 09, 2011

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Replaced ac unit with new compressor. Fires up as usual but compressor wont start.No fault code coming on controller. Whats the problem?

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I have a Dimplex Heater model no DS5629BR Can't get any heat I have unpluged it & and still can't get any heat. Dont see anything in manual about thermostat being bad or changing it all it said w

Have an electrician check it out.
The heating comes from coils of wire which glow red heat. Air from the fan passes over these coils and keep them from burning out.

If the unit has overheated, it is very likely that one of the coils has burned out and there is no electrical circuit, hence no heat.

An electrical repair shop will be able to verify this for you and fit replacement coils.

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I can not control the air position .it is always at my feet ..and also i just change the thermostat and still some time i have no heat... im thinking its the control unit i have to change .

i think the heat control in this is electric and a little motor moves the damper open and closed you can check the two motors but its probable the heat control unit check and see if you have power going to heat unit

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Check the elements, if you have access to a meter to check them. If they are getting power to elements and you have no hot water.
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Sounds like the elements are bad.

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Check thermostat in the machine. Check whether power reaching the thermostat by using a pocket electrical live line tester. to do this you have to run the machine.

If you get power in one terminal, the other terminal of the thermostat should have power. If this OK check the heating element.

If you are not conversant with electrical gadgets, take service center help.

Take care while working on live circuits.

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I bought one of these units at a Salvation Army Store still in the box brand new. I experienced the same problems (power was lit, but the breaker would trip and turn unit off). I opened the unit up and since I have knowledge of circuits, I bypassed the breaker (trips when it reaches a predetermined temp). I did however add a CRUCIAL electrical component that makes this possible an keeps your house from burning down - a added a simple dial thermostat (like one from a single electric plug-in coil stove top). Bottom line, I took on this project moreless for fun and I would NOT RECOMMEND anyone try this unless you have some knowledge about electrical circuits.

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Sound like there are running on emergency heat which is elrctric.Have the system checked out buy a local heating and cooling company. Have they checked the filter and changed them.

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We have a rheem electric hot water system which is suddenly not producing hot water. We have checked the electricity supply, the valve and both these were OK. We are at a loss to explain why this is...

Electric water heater are designed with two elements for heating the water. The upper element is what is called the quick recovery element which is control by a thermostat. The thermostat has a reset button that will open in an over temperature situation. If the reset is NOT tripped it is possible that the upper element or thermostat has failed. Until the upper element is satisfied ( up to set temperature) the lower element does not get any power through the circuit.

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