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Can I just change the needle plate on my janome overlocker been told I need to have loopers reset

It is a janome 9300dx, the right needle on the needle plate is snapped off

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 1,564 Answers

Sergers are funny things. You can certainly try just replacing the needle.... make sure you thread correctly. upper looper, lower looper, right needle left needle... etc.

Before you take off sewing... run the machine by hand a few revolutions if it seems to be moving with no more clunking etc. try to sew. If it breaks the needle again. Stop immediately and take it in.

Posted on Dec 04, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: The needles on my Janome 9102D keep breaking

I had a similar problem with my machine. What I've started doing with mine is setting the stitch length at 3 and the differential feed ratio at 1.0 then I set all 4 thread tensions at 3. I thread the machine from right to left, and then when everything seems to be working okay I take scrap material to test the tension and then set them to suit the material I'm using. Right now I'm working with a twill so my settings are 4-4-5-5. This seems to have stopped the thread slipping off the bottom looper and I haven't had any more needles break. I hope this is helpful.

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

WonderTech
  • 268 Answers

SOURCE: When i use my janome overlocker the needle is

Hello,
Here are a few things to try.

* When you insert anew needle, make sure it’s positioned correctly. Usually with the flat side
away from the bobbin, but consult your manual. Make sure that it goes all the way into the holder, and that the screw is securely tightened.


If there doesn’t seem to be a problem with your needle, try the following:

* Check your pressure foot
Make sure it’s attached securely.

* Change your pressure foot
Your pressure foot may be bent, causing your needle to hit it.

* Don’t sew over pins
A needle that hits a pin can break. Always remove the pins from your fabric before they reach
your needle.

* Don’t pull your fabric as you sew
You could be bending your needle back, causing it to hit your needle plate instead of going into
the hole. Just guide your fabric, letting it feed on its own.

* Check your needle plate
Make sure it's securely in position.

* Change your needle plate
If you’ve been using a straight stitch needle plate (a plate with a small hole, often used for
sewing fine, delicate fabrics), switch to a needle plate with a wider hole.

* Check the position of your needle
Sewing machines with zigzag capability allow you to adjust the position of your needle – right,
left, or center. If your needle is not positioned correctly, it may be hitting your needle plate or
pressure foot.

I hope one of these solutions help you.

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: Serger stitch not forming right

It sounds like the timing needs to be reset by a sewing machine repair tech.

Posted on May 09, 2010

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

Bernina 335 serger won't sew/overlock. carefully rethreaded the serger but that hasn't helped.


The 335 has a two thread chain stitch (stitch type 401), and the overlock side (right needle side), is a three thread plain overlock. If you are describing the plain overlock as the problem, I would first suggest the following in re-threading:

1. Thread the upper looper
2. Thread the lower looper
3. Thread the needle last (important)

If the needle threaded, you cannot re-thread the lower looper without breaking the thread.
In order to thread the lower looper, the lower looper must pass by the needle thus picking up the needle thread. So, instead of threading the lower looper thread underneath the needle thread, the looper would be threaded on top and cannot sew without breaking the thread.
Make sure that the threads are bedded between the tension disks. Check this by stretching the thread fore and aft of the tension disks as well as visually noting that the threads are not accidentally threaded behind the disks. You can also loosen the tension disks when threading so as to allow the threads to bed deeply between the disks.
Please reply with your observations.

Sep 27, 2015 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I adjust tension on a Janome Harmony 9102D


Sounds like you want to do a rolled hem for a handkerchief edge, I do the following to create a rolled hem on my over locker. Take out left needle and cut and remove that thread. Open front cover and slide back lever for the stitch finger in the needle plate, this finger stops the fabric rolling under thread tension normally so you need to pull it back out of engagement. Your Janome may have a similar means to select the rolled hem or you may need to remove the stitch finger with a screwdriver, it varies between models.

Thread upper looper with wooly nylon and right needle and lower looper in matching colour thread. (You can go wooly on the bottom looper but it hardly shows so I never bother.) Disengage upper blade and move the fixed lower blade to the right to trim less, then lower upper blade back into position. Now tension, needle leave alone (5)' upper looper very loose (2-3) and lower looper tighten up to 6-7 and test stitch. You want the upper looper thread to go right underneath and the lower looper thread to disappear against the needle stitch. And the fabric to roll inside the stitching. Finesse tensions on the loopers until this is right, you may need to change blade position too, depends on weight of the fabric and how it rolls. Once this is right turn stitch length down to close up stitching, 0.8 or even 0.5 if you want full coverage. Thats it. You can use differential feed if you want a fluted rolled edge, nice on knits.

Mar 02, 2015 | Janome Harmony 9102D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

I have a new home janome model number 534 how do I


The Janome 534 that I know is an overlocker (or serger). If this is so, then when you open the front flap / door there should be a diagram showing the thread path. It is important though to first thread the inner (upper) looper, then secondly the outer (lower) looper, thirdly the inner (right) needle, and lastly the outer (left) needle.

Oct 09, 2014 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Adjusting tension on overlocker


overlockers and sergers are annoying in that every time you change materials and threads they must be re-tensioned.

Get a scrap piece of material. Thread your machine correctly according to the instructions in your manual. If no manual most sergers are threaded, upper looper, lower looper then needles from right to left. Make sure you thread with the presser foot UP.

You want to balance the stitches Begin by adjusting the looper dials, you want them to meet right at the cut edge. Then adjust your needles. Keep doing test seams until you have them balanced. If you are a novice... try threading with each thread point having it's own color. That will help you identify which thread is giving you fits.

Have fun.

Oct 15, 2012 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

My Janome 204d Serger won't form a chain stitch. It is threaded correctly. I have changed the needles??


I would suggest that you check the needles again, make sure they are both fully up into the needle housing. Also they should be at different heights in order to form the stitch sequence.

It is important that you thread the loopers first in the sequence shown in your manual, then the needles. So you may need to recheck the threading again and make sure the threads are in all the eyes correctly, especially the lower looper. Also some overlockers, have a sliding eye on the lower looper for ease of threading, if yours does, make sure it has been slid back to normal operating position.

When you have checked the threading up, take all four threads under the raised pressure foot and make sure that the upper looper thread and lower looper threads are not crossing over each other. Lower the pressure foot and try to chain off again.
I hope this helps you to resolve the issue.

Oct 11, 2011 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

What setting are the three threads set on for a rolled hem on a singer ultralock l4sh654 and what is the lever by the plate for?


Rolled hemming on any overlocker is usually achived the following way. Right hand needle only.
Blade over to the right usually to cut wider than normal but you can vary this to suit the fabric and stitch width you want.
Thread in this needle and the upper and lower loopers. If you can source any, use woolly overlock thread in the upper looper, this fluffs out when not tensioned and covers the fabric to give the look of solid stitching. Change upper looper tension to about 2 and lower looper tension to about 6 or 7.

The lever by the plate is usually to control the little stitch finger where the stitches are formed, move it backwards and it should move back towards you?? If this happens, then you want it in the retracted (towards you) position for rolled hemming so the stitching is much smaller and the fabric can roll. Normally this stitch finger holds the fabric firm for the loopers to form the stitch over for your normal 3 or 4 thread overlock.

Now test stitch and see how it looks. Tighten the lower looper thread so it lays right beside the needle on the underside. You may need to then tighten or loosen more the upper looper, you want the upper thread to wrap all the way around to the underneath against the lower looper thread and needle.

The cut edge of fabric should roll to underneath inside your seam. Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5 or so to close it right up tight. This uses heaps of thread so I usually test everything else, then close it up at the end to minimise waste.

Hope this makes sense, good luck.

Sep 22, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

I cannot get the tension right? Also, trying rolled hem with 3 needles...tension too loose.


Rolled hem would be one needle and two loopers, is this what you meant?

Make sure you move the blade to right so that you are cutting wider than the stitch being formed, you want the fabric to roll to the underside inside the stitch.

I would set top looper tension to 3 and bottom looper tension to 6 first off (needle at five, normal tension) first off and test serge with the stitch length at normal 2 or so, so you can see if the fabric is rolling under for you. There is proabably a stitch finger in the throat that you need to change too, sometimes its on the foot, (change with a screwdriver) and sometimes just a finger down on the needle plate.

Then adjust the two looper tensions making lower thread nestle up against the needle on the bottom of the stitch, and the top looper thread wrapping right over to bottom as well. Once this is happening, then turn stitch length down to close up the stitches.

It does depend on the weight of fabric too, and if you want to seam curves.

I find its best done with wooly overlock thread on top looper to "fill" in the overlocking appearance and fully cover the fabric.

I hope this is of help, if the tensions just wont behave then one of them might be faulty and machine need a service, I get mine done at least every 2 years to keep timing and tensions right.

May 26, 2011 | New Home 104D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I need to switch to rolled hemming and can't find my manual


Is this on a serger?

Rolled hemming on a serger is usually achieved by doing the following: thread up for three thread overlock using right hand needle. Move blade to the right to trim fabric wider (so it rolls inside the seam). Put woolly overlock thread through top looper (this gives a smooth finish to the rolled hem). Loosen off top looper and tighten up bottom looper so the bottom looper is up tight against the needle thread on the underside. Test serge to get the stitch right, then turn the stitch length down to 0.5 to close it up tight (this uses loads of thread so I usually get everything else right first, then make this final adjustment). On my Bernette 334D tensions are R-Needle - 5, Top looper 7-8 and bottom looper is 3-4. Stitch length 0.5, differential zero.

And usually you flick a small lever or change a little finger on the foot or plate where the stitch forms, there is some variation here between models. Early Elna L4 and L5 locks you had a little finger you changed with a screwdriver on the pressure foot. Bernette has a little slide mechanicism near the blade that you flick forward to engage.

Hope this is of assistance to you - I went for a 2 hour lesson on my serger when I bought it and then came home and repeated all the techniques shown and then made notes and stapled all the stitch samples into a notebook so I could remember how I did it.

Also there are some great books on Serging, Nancy Zieman is one name that springs to mind. Or try You-Tube, she has some videos up there too showing different techniques.


Apr 27, 2011 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do i thread my 434d overlocker i have forgotten the sequence i need to use


I scanned my manual for it, and it can be downloaded for free here.

The gist of it, is that you should do the lower looper first, upper looper, right needle, then left needle. From the front of the machine, this is starting with the rightmost holes on the threadguide plate, and finishing with the leftmost holes on the threadguide plate.

Jul 08, 2009 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

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