Question about Refrigerators
Most likely needs replacement of "bimetal" and freezer defrost heater.
Posted on Dec 02, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
these appliances are a pain in the butt. fault with water dispensor is oprob that the water bottle at bottom of fridge is frozen. rise in temp is prob that defrost not taking place. not a diy unless you are experienced
Posted on Mar 20, 2007
You have a clogged defrost drain tube. best way is to thaw unit out. Your vents are being blocked so no air flow is pushed down.
Posted on Jan 05, 2008
Hi just wondering if you figured out the problem with your Samsung fridge yet.
It is definately a problem with the defrost part of the fridge. After approximately 4 to 10 hours dependent on many different factors it enters into defrost mode to get rid of any excess ice in both the fridge and the freezer. During the defrost stage the compressor will not run. If any fault occurs during the defrost stage the fridge will not restart unless you turn it off and back on again which restes the pcb and takes it out of defrost mode and the timer starts again.
Please let me know how you went with it.
Posted on Oct 26, 2008
soiunds like the coil on the refrigerator side is iced up.take and open the refrfigerator side and take a blow drier and after removing the 11 screws use the hair drier to slowly melt the icec behind the cover. If you pull too hard and or too soon you'll break the stryofoam ductin that has to be around the coil. then make sure that the drain line is clear reassemble and have a Merry Christmas!
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.
(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.
Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
The normal setting for a freezer is -2 to +2 degrees F., and the normal setting for the fresh food section is +35 to +40 degrees F.
You only have one source of cooling and that is your freezer. With the settings that you have, you are asking your unit to do what it is not designed to do.
The ice maker is struggling because if it is a cast steel ice cube mold, the heater beneath it is not designed for the current to break the ice cubes free @ -18 degrees F., or if you have a plastic flex ice cube mold it is too ridged to flex enough to break the ice cubes free. Normally your ice maker should dump 8-10 times in a 24 hour period.
A note on food storage. Make sure you do not overload your freezer of fresh food section to the point where food product extends beyond the edge of the shelves.
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