Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
My machine stops with 11 minutes to go in mid-cycle. Error code is flashing f and 11
The F11 code is caused by either a CCU failure or an MCU failure...here\'s how to tell:
If your machine starts a cycle and the water fills but the drum NEVER turns, your MCU is bad...it\'s most cost effective to buy a refurbished one and you can get them on eBay for $99 all day long.
If your machine makes it most of the way through a cycle but throws an F11 code during the rinse or spin, your CCU has the relay solder / vibration problem...
Posted on May 26, 2014
The "F11" fault code will display if the Motor Control Unit (MCU) has an internal failure; repeating under or over voltage, or over current conditions. If failure occurs during high speed spin the door unlocks after 3 minutes. The MCU (Motor Control Unit) is located beside the motor. Here is the part to order.
Posted on Dec 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
121 MINUTES USUALLY DRAIN CYCLE PLZ REMOVE 3 BOTTOM PANEL SCREWS 7 MM SCREWS, TO OPEN DOOR SLIDE RIGHT HAND TOWARDS DOOR LOCK ,THERE WILL BE A SMALL LEVER TOO PULL DOWN ,NOW ITS OPEN,,, SINCE U HAVE BOTTOM PANEL OFF PUMP IS RIGHT IN FRONT REMOVE PLASTIC HOUSING CLOCKWISE ,,,REMEMEBER HOLD 3 GALLONS OF WATER STILL ,HAVE BUCKET READY ,NOW CLEAN OUT PUMP AND DEBRIS ,, CLOSE IT UP SHOULD BE FINE NO MORE PROBLEMS ,,,,,
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
Depending on how fritzed your drain pump is this may or may not work. I've been using HE detergent because it is supposed to cause fewer suds. However, apparently is causing more suds than needed. I need to use only a couple tablespoons? If your clothes are not dirty enough for the soap to grab onto then extra suds are the result. The repair guy said we had an excessive amount of suds in the system and this affects the sensor and causes the drain pump to run and run and run until it shuts off from overheating. This is why we get the F2 and/or suds error code. He said once a month run the machine on the hottest water cycle with a cup of bleach (no clothes). This will clear out any suds build-up and is cheaper than Afresh which works, too, (but smells cleaner than bleach). After sitting for a day our pump started working again (yay!) It also stopped making the horrible loud sound. So glad I do not have to replace the pump!! yet...(knock on wood!).
Posted on May 13, 2009
SOURCE: what do these error codes mean?
No water detected entering machine or pressure switch trip not detected
If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine, the valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
If the control has turned the water valves on, and after 8 minutes, the flow sensor has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off, and the error code will flash.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
Possible Causes / Procedure
• If there is no water in the unit:
- Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
- Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
- Verify inlet valve operation.
• If there is water in the unit:
- Verify drain pump operation.
- Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub
and pressure switch.
1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump, flow meter,
and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Verify pressure switch operation.
7. Verify flow meter operation by blowing air through the part and measuring the resistance.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any cycle.
Replace failed component.(usually this will be failed pressure switch. the hose should be replaced as well)
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
"F6" is a Motor Speed error problem. It is commonly attributed to a broken or slipped drive belt, defective Drive Motor, or bad Motor Control Unit (MCU). The following link explains:
First, remove the back panel of the unit and make sure the drive belt is not broken, or has not slipped off the drum pulley.
Then, remove the top panel of the washer and check all the connector plugs between the Drive Motor, MCU and Central Control Unit (CCU). Check for loose connections and then unplug each connector and plug them back in (one at a time) to ensure they are snug and making good contact. The top panel comes off by removing the three screws that hold it in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off.
NOTE: You only need to check the connectors that affect the drive motor and MCU circuitry.
The MCU has a tachometer mounted on it. If it is determined to be the cause of the problem, it is considered part of the MCU and cannot be replaced separately. The MCU is not serviceable and will require replacement.
Next, check the motor windings to ensure they are reading the proper resistance. Followed by continuity checks of all the interconnecting wiring between the drive motor, MCU and CCU. You should not need a service manual because each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet.
For more in depth troubleshooting tips refer to your tech sheet located inside the washer behind the lower toe panel. You will need to locate and remove the screws under the bottom front edge of the toe panel. Once removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. The tech sheet includes all error codes, test points, diagnostic procedures and helpful illustrations to assist in troubleshooting and repair of your washer.
If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
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