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Dryer hums and heats when plugged in

I changed the heating element, thermal limiter, rear bearing assembly, and the belt. the drum and motor seam to spin freely. when i plugged the dryer in it started to hum and get hot immediatly.

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  • Dryers Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the complete model number of your unit?

Posted on Dec 02, 2012

  • 2 more comments 
  • jason l miller Dec 02, 2012

    kenmore 417.80042990

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Dec 02, 2012

    OK, you will need to replace the motor. The start windings are weak. Here is the motor to order.http://bit.ly/UjcKxg

  • jason l miller Dec 03, 2012

    would this cause the heating element to heat up with out being turned on?

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Dec 03, 2012

    OK, so it heats up without selecting a cycle then? If that's the case I would replace the timer. Here is that part to order.http://bit.ly/QCs0XW There is nothing else that would cause this condition except the timer. Keep me posted!

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TheMobilian
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SOURCE: kenmore dryer hums/heats up, but drum does not spin!

Depending on the type of door the dryer has, is how you approach the access of these dryers. Mostly though you yank out the filter first.Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing on top.Then use a putty knife to pop the top. Remove the screws holding the front panel on. VERY IMPORTANT! Raise the front up an inch before pulling forward or the panel clips will break! Some models have a panel on bottom. If they do then this panel must come off first. Then you remove the door springs and back off the screws holding down the bottom of the door panel. Then pop the top and remove the screws on top to get the panel out of your way. Yank out the tub. Clean the junk out (send me the coinery) oil the wheels and Idler with temp resistant zoomoil from ace hardware. Use this guide to replace dat belt Kimosabe:
BELT CONFIG 101

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer motor just hums

Sounds like the belt has been stretched and is not letting the motor turn the drum. If the motor is not turning at all then your motor is burnt out and needs ot be replaced

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • 220 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag dryer hums but drum does not turn.

See if the blower wheel moves,more times than not you'll find a sock stuck in the blower wheel.

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: dryer drum turns, no heat, replaced thermal limiter

Your model which we call the 417, is not usually easy to work on. The heating element is located behind the dryer drum. The drum has to be removed to change the element. There is a lot involved but given the cost of a stack unit the element and labor may be worth it.

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis dryer drum not

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Posted on Oct 28, 2010

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1 Answer

Will not run


hi.

As first thing check thermal fuse and door lock.

The thermal fuse is tested using a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, then it will read open at Ohm meter. (fuse is also called thermal limiter or high limit).

The door latch is tested jumping its contacts and running a cycle.

If that is not the problem, then things will get more complex, as you will need to access the heating group to test thermostats, fan and element, and you will also need to test the motor assembly and belt.

Free air ducts from lint and test thermostats and element by reading Ohms. When thermostats and element are the problem, the machine usually spins but there is no heath.

The motor and belt are tested checking belt state and energizing motor. When this parts are bad, the machine may heat but the drum does not turn.

Repairs must be done by a trained person.

To get parts and diagrams try entering the full model number in one of the websites below:

Enter the model number ..

To contact a repairer, call the number listed on the owners manual or use the Fixya directory (US only)

Regards.

Ginko.

Nov 05, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

Tip

Elite and Duet Dryer Heating Element Replacement


This advice explains how to replace the heating element on Whirlpool Duet, Kenmore Elite and Maytag Epic dryers.

1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is turned off.

2. Open the door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You will not be able to remove the air blower cover with the lint screen in place.

3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the door. The panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: Propping the front feet of the dryer up can provide you better access to the screws (a 2x4 works well for this).

4. Disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (usually yellow wires with a white plug to the right of the blower assembly) and any ground wires that may be connected to the front panel.

5. Remove the air blower cover by locating and removing the mounting screws. NOTE: This is a good time to clean the blower fan housing, squirrel cage motor and dryer interior cabinet.

6. Remove the top panel of the dryer by locating and removing the screws holding the panel in place in the rear of the dryer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then come off.

7. Locate the two screws that hold the operator console in place. There should be one on each side under the top panel. Remove the screws and carefully lift the panel straight up. NOTE: You do not need to disconnect the ribbon cables. Carefully lay the console across the top of the dryer out of the way.

8. Disconnect the door switch connector plug and remove the dryer front panel by locating the four screws that hold it in place. Loosen the two screws along the bottom of the panel and leave in place. Remove the top two screws and lift up and turn the whole front panel slightly counter-clockwise to release the drum supports from the dryer drum. NOTE: Make sure the dryer door is closed when removing the front panel to avoid damaging the door hinges.

9. Remove the dryer drum. Reach in behind the air blower with both hands and pull the idler pulley to the right with your right hand to release the tension and remove the dryer belt from the drive motor. With the belt still looped around the drum, you can use it like a handle to lift the entire drum up and out of the dryer.

10. With the drum removed, the heating components can easily be accessed. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat is located on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located at the back of the dryer, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.


11. The entire heating assembly is removed by disconnecting all the components leads, followed by loosening the heater box mounting screw. With everything disconnected, the entire box and components will come free and lift out of the dryer. NOTE: Make sure you properly label all wiring to ensure they are reinstalled correctly.

12. There are a couple of mounting screws on the side of the heater box that holds the heating element in place. With the screws removed, the heating element will slide out of the box. NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the component disconnected from the circuit to ensure accuracy. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat will read something close to 0 ohms if GOOD. The Heating Element should read 9 to 13 ohms.

13. Insert new heating element into the heater box and align the screw holes. Replace any other defective components and reinstall heater box.

14. Reinstall dryer drum ensuring the back rim of the drum rests on the rear dryer drum supports. Make sure the belt is looped on to the drum with the ribbed side towards the drum.

15. Reinstall the dryer belt by releasing the belt tension pulley as listed above, then, with your left hand loop the belt over the drive motor pulley. Release the idler pulley making sure the belt rests on the drive motor pulley. You should feel the belt tighten with tension. If you need further clarification on how to properly route the dryer belt you can go to repairclinic.com and click on the "Repair Help" link at the top of the page. On the following page, locate the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section. Refer to diagram K.

16. Reinstall the front panel by turning it slightly counter-clockwise and aligning the front drum supports under the front of the drum. Once the supports are under the drum, turn the front panel clockwise and lift up, placing it on the bottom two screws. Reinstall and tighten the top two screws.

17. Reinstall the door switch connector plug and reinstall the operator console. Use caution not to put too much stress on the ribbon cables.

18. Reinstall dryer top panel.

19. Reinstall air blower cover and reconnect the auto dry sensor and ground wire.

20. Reinstall toe panel by inserting the top portion first and pushing up. Push lower portion of the panel in place and reinstall screws.

I know this may seem like a lot, but its actually fairly simple if you follow the steps provided. Read through everything before attempting any repairs. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

on Dec 20, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer drum turns, no heat, replaced thermal limiter


Your model which we call the 417, is not usually easy to work on. The heating element is located behind the dryer drum. The drum has to be removed to change the element. There is a lot involved but given the cost of a stack unit the element and labor may be worth it.

Feb 17, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Heating problem with kenmore elite he4 electric dryer. drum turns, lent trap clean, heating element ohms ok, thermo coupler ohms ok, thermostat ohms ok, timer counting down. still no heat.


limit switch stuck open should be behind motor housing is a tight fit to get to but there are two there on the element one on vent tube the other is thermal switch recommend chang the two on the tube ck element limits should all read continuityif not reolace

Jan 26, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

When dryer is turned on , it hums but the drum doesnt turn. It smells like heating element is working, belt is on correctly but drum will not turn. Any suggestions? Thank uou


sounds like the bearing the drum rides on is bad. that will cause the breaker to trip as the motor strains to turn the drum on the bad bearing.

Sep 09, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer WED5530SQ0, heats but does not run


So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!

Jul 30, 2009 | Whirlpool WED5500S Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating element heats up, but dryer will not spin.


Since you stated that the heating element is heating up I believe it rules out the thermal switches.
When you push the start button does it make the motor make any noise? Maybe hear the motor humming? Two things to check for are Broken Belt or Bad Motor:
This requires common sense and since you are going to be bypassing the safety features you need be CAREFUL.

First, with door open, manually press in door switch to by-pass door safety, then press "start", try to manually start the dryer by spinning the drum by hand, If you hear the motor humming but it does not start spinning on it's own; most likely it is a broken belt which can be changed without much difficulty for less than $15 bucks. NOW if it then continues to spin on it's own GET YOUR HAND OUT OF THERE and close the door; you have a bad motor and even though it started it needs to be replaced. A motor for that is available for just under $100 bucks and is not to bad to replace, I would recommend replacing the belt at the same time since you will be in there. Good Luck!

Apr 29, 2009 | Whirlpool LEQ7030KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replace thermal cut out units


This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.

May 19, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Need a diagram to change heating element and sensors


unplug the drier pull it out from the wall about a foot facing the drier take a small putty knife and insert it about 3" from the edge push the knife in till you feel the spring clip push in on it and lift the top then repeat that on the other side fold the top back till it leans against the wall look in the drier on the front edge of the front door panel there are two 5\16 in screws there remove them and un plug the light switch and the door switch assembly .grasp the front door panel and give it a quick snap forward to disengage the retaining clips and the door from the drum remove the door .Lay on the floor reach in and remove the belt from the idler pulley and blower motor pulley .Then while standing at the side of the drier grasp the belt with one hand and the front of the drier drum with the other and **** up sharply on the belt to release the drier drum from the rear drum bearing then remove the drum out the front on the rear you will see the heating element there will be one sensor on the heater pan that's the safety or high limit thermostat the tiny one on the drier body is the thermal overload the one on the vent at the bottom is the operating thermostat but its rare to have a problem with them if the drier is not heating the first thing i recommend is check your voltage and connections and don't assume just because its running its getting full voltage check it with a meter driers will run on 110 but will not heat without 220

Mar 10, 2008 | Frigidaire GLER341A Electric Dryer

5 Answers

Kenmore electric dryer won't start. #63841


Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out has blown. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, normally the hi-limit thermostat will open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regualtes its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow, It is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Normally, when you go to replace one or the other they are sold as a set. This still does not rule out the possibility of a bad heating element, either.

However, you said the dryer additionally does not start. With a blown TCO or heating element the dryer will still run, but will not heat. I'll get back to this in a minute...

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell you've experienced. If trapped lint is ending up on the heating element it will smolder and burn. I recommend the ducting be cleaned thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determing air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the unit (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint.

Now, in determing which component is bad in your dryer. If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side.

The heating circuit is set up and troubleshot as follows:

Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, 7 ohms across the other.

*Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

*If the Thermal Fuse blows, this will shut down the entire dryer. This is your likely suspect.

Here's a few things that will cause a dryer not to start at all:

1. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
2. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
3. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
4. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
6. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

I just threw in those other items to give you some other things to consider. Troubleshooting is always an exact science as symptoms don't always indicate what you think the problem could be. The reason I keyed in on the heating circuitry was the intial symptoms you started with. Longer dry times are usually associated with poor air flow which usually causes something to eventually blow. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back with any comments that I may assist you further. I hope this isn't confusing to you. Please ask for clarification if it is.

Nov 02, 2007 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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