Question about Washing Machines
Will not fill water but starts to spin
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
it will fill but won,t spin, will throw out water as if it washed, then it take water to rinse but won,t spin ,then will throw out water as if it did , but clothes are soaked
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
There are two possible causes. The most likely cause is the lid switch, which is supposed to keep you from sticking your hand into the moving basket. On many washers this only keeps the machine from spinning, but on other models it prevents agitating as well. The other possibility is the water level switch, but that usually causes no filling or overfilling if it's bad.
Both parts are available from Sears (www.searspartsdirect.com) and many other online sources. (I normally use the Sears site to find a part number if I don't already know it, then search for that number on Google. It's a great way to find good prices on more costly parts.) There are also a number of sites with detailed information about how to remove the cabinet to get at the parts if you want to try doing it yourself. Replacing these parts is pretty simple if you're comfortable with a screwdriver and have some mechanical ability.
If you'd rather have someone else repair the machine, this would normally be about a 1 hour plus parts charge for an appliance technician. It isn't time for a new washer yet.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
Check lid switch. Most will not run with lid open and the switch may not be pressed down when door is closed
Posted on May 17, 2009
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
Take note of your symptoms:
1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.
2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.
If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
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