Question about Electrolux EI26SS55GS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Since purchasing this refrigerator the main switchboad has failed, locking up, and was replaced on 8/10/2009. It now appers to be acting up again this time it shuts off sounding the audible alarm as if the power has gone off. I am able to reset this by pressing the temp display, opening the refigerator door for now. If neither one works unplugging the power supply and reconnecting has worked resetting the panel for now. This is ocurring more frequently over the last couple days sometimes as often as every couple hours. Is there a default or recall with this refrigerator? Is this the switchboard failing again?

Posted by on

  • Gary Materkoski Dec 10, 2012

    Recieved the control board on Friday replaced it that evening and the refrigerator is working good as new. Very helpful and accurate information, it's good to know there's a way to trust worthy solutions to problems. Thankyou very much.

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Electrolux Master
  • 9,472 Answers

Try this little trick I use:
The first thing I would do is plug an alarm clock into the receptacle behind the refrigerator by itself and see if it is blinking in the morning. If it is flashing then it is a problem with the receptacle. If not then you would want to replace the control board. Here is the board to order.

Posted on Dec 02, 2012

Testimonial: "Very easy and appropiate way to rule out possible problems in the troublehooting process. This way the right part is purchased eliminating replacing wrong parts in the troubleshooting phase. "

  • Gary Materkoski Dec 03, 2012

    The power supply waas switched and checked with an alarm clock. Both checked ok. If the control board is changed is there any special precaution to take, or is it a simple unplug and plug the new on in?

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Dec 03, 2012

    Be sure that you have the unit unplugged from the wall before changing the board out. Be sure to take note of the plug locations on the borad. I always take a picture of the board before I unplug any connections just to be sure I have it right. Other than that it's a simple swap out. Keep me posted!

×

3 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: Power fail light, water and air filter warning light, and crushed ice dispenser light stay on all the time.

Your stated water pressure is abnormally high; well systems supply 30-60 pounds of pressure and municipal systems are *supposed* to be around 60# since most plumbing (faucets, showerheads) is designed around that point.
If your pressure has been measured at that level, more than your refrigerator is at risk of failure.

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: New door fitted on Larder

The old door had a hidden trigger that signaled when the door was closed.
You need to retrieve the trigger from the old door and fit to the new door.

Posted on Apr 01, 2011

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

I have a GE Profile refrigerator model #PFSSPKXBSS and the front control panel gets frozen. The only time I can change the settings is when the display panel goes haywire and starts changing all the...


solenoid for the ice dispenser flopper might get rusted, so the flop door would not close and freezer air would escape building up ice. need new solenoid assy for ice dispenser door and possible flopper.

Mar 27, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Glass touch control panel stopped working totally. So not water and no ice. Don't see any burn marks on main control board in top of fridge and touch control board in the door also looks ok. Any volta


My refrigerator has a lock out. If I press the lock for 5 seconds and unit locks out dispenser capabilities. I use is when grandkids get here so they don't play with it and spread ice and water everywhere. To unlock, simply I press another 5 seconds and I can get ice and water again. Check your lock to see if someone has inadvertantly locked it out.
Hope this helps

Feb 09, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fixya manuals


It doesn't defrost
  1. Defrost control board
If the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  1. Defrost timer
If the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  1. Defrost heater assembly
If your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  1. Defrost sensor with fuse
Another possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.
Defrost drain problems
  1. Clogged or freezing defrost drain
If you are experiencing defrost drain issues, it is possibly due to a clogged or freezing drain that is blocking water flow to the bottom of the freezer. This will cause the defrost water to drain and drip down to the bottom of the freezer section. To correct this issue, thaw any ice or remove debris that could be causing the clogged drain or replace the drain heater.
  1. Drain heater
If you are experiencing defrost drain problems, inspect the defrost drain heater. A dislocated or burnt out drain heater will result in the drain tube freezing over. Attempt to return the part to the designated position or replace the damaged part to correct the issue. Search Over 2 1 Million Appliance Parts

Sep 06, 2014 | GE Monogram ZIRS36NM 36'' Stainless All...

1 Answer

I have a 2140 updated.. Main motor block message appers and its not blocked.


Sounds like, Burned out motor bearings.....QUit using the machine and have it properly repaired by an authorized repair technician.

Jan 28, 2014 | PfaFF Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Neff integrated fridge freezer


test this steps and fix it, use the VOM. God bless you

  1. Defrost control boardIf the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  2. Main control boardA possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  3. Defrost timerIf the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  4. Defrost heater assemblyIf your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  5. Defrost thermostatAnother cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  6. Defrost sensor with fuseAnother possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/refrigerator-repair-help.html#9#ixzz2aX5nUL00
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 30, 2013 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Does not like to be parked on a down side hill. /will not start acts like it is out of gas. Tank has been replaced as well as fuel filter but one time chugged and acted as if it had run out of gas. It...


Yes it's likely the fuel pump. If that was the first time the filter was changed and it really needed it, it usually causes the pump to fail. It's in the gas tank.

Aug 12, 2010 | 1992 Buick Park Avenue

2 Answers

Why would my door handles (inside and out) intermittently fail and not open the doors.? I can see one door going out (mostly the passenger door) but at one time both failed and then by magic they start...


the mechanism at the door lock is not returning the park position that's why you can't open it try lubricating the lock, the return spring could be hanging up. worst case scenario you will have to remove the door panel and lubricate it from the inside. the lock is fine.

Jan 28, 2010 | 1997 Volkswagen Cabrio

1 Answer

The refrigerator will not cool, same with the freezer. I here a clicking noise from the back of the refrigerator, one of my buddies took a look at it, and he thinks it sounds like it is stuck in defrost....


The clicking sound your hearing is most likely the compressor trying to start but fails to do so. This is a protection feature that is the Klixon thermal protector heating up because the compressor is not starting properly and then the audible CLICK is the Klixon opening the start circuit. Things that cause this are a bad run capacitor, a bad compressor relay or possibly a locked compressor which is by far the worst thing that could be wrong.
If the unit is 8 years old or younger I would at least allow a service tech to replace the start relay Klixon and run capacitor. If ater that process is completed and it still does not start then the compressor is locked and has failed internally the compressor rmust be eplaced. There is a Locked rotor test that the tech can do with an Amp meter. On the side of the compressor there is a LRA (Locked rotor Assy) value in amps. If after connecting the amp meter and attempting a start cycle that LRA value is reached then the compressor is locked. Oce again i.e replacement required. If the unit is over 8 years old I would seriously consider purchasing a new unit depending on the overall condition of your unit. If it is good shape then go ahead and have the compressor replaced. Mind you this is one the most costly repairs you can have done.

Jan 04, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Gets warm. Shut it off and reset it will work for a couple days.


It could very well be the start relay or capacitor. It also could be the compressor is wearing out. Unplug, remove cover on compressor wiring and mark the wires going to compressor. Take the capacitor to a refrigeration store or have someone check the capacitor. You also could replace the capacitor and start relay with a three in one relay and capacitor combined, that is rated for a refrigerator the size of yours. Get back with me when you find something, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Mar 23, 2009 | KitchenAid KTRC19MKSS Top Freezer...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Electrolux EI26SS55GS Stainless Steel  Side by Side Refrigerator Logo

973 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Electrolux Refrigerators Experts

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75797 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Are you an Electrolux Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...