Question about Smeg PGF95SCU3 - Gas Cooktop, 90 cm approx. 35", Stainless Steel

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How to replace a thermocouple on a smeg gas hob

The main gas ring in the centre will light but as soon as you let go of the switch/ igniter it owes out. Is the thermocouple malfunctioning ?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Smeg SE64 Gas cook top

problem with hob is probably water ingress in area of ignition unit - will probably cure itself oven is a completely separate unit from hob. problem with it is that you have to re-set the clock - you have it on automatic. after power outage, oven clock always has to be reset

Posted on Apr 04, 2007

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  • 222 Answers

SOURCE: Installing Smeg Gas Hob PGF75-3 Ultra Low Profile.

yes u can install it at the top of the drawers but check the gas connection before closing the drawers to make sure ther no problem,the inlet gas connection is in rigth side facing to u.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: Cannot ignite central gas ring on smeg 5-ring kitchen hob

Still in warranty - get it repaired. Would not advise above solution as work needs to be carried out by CORGI engineer.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

SOURCE: hob problems

Hello,
Take a closer look at the wiring diagram on the base or in the book.Check you have put in the relevant links.If not wired properly you may only get half the hob working.

Hope this helps.

Posted on May 19, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Dual ring shows letter E

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Posted on Sep 05, 2010

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1 Answer

A gas ring does not remain lit after lighting on one of the burners on my Borsch brushed steel gas hob


Seems like one of the thermocouples has failed or it may just be dirty. There should be 2 "prongs" sticking up toward the burner. 1 is for the ignition and causes the spark to jump to the burner and light it. The other is a thermocouple which senses the heat from the flame and operates a magnetic device on the gascock to keep the gas flowing. If the thermocouple is faulty, damaged, dirty, it may not sense the heat and therefore, the flame will keep going out. Make sure the end of it is clean and the burner is positioned properly on its base. The thermocouple is usually a steel rod sticking up. This can be easily cleaned with a bit of steel wool or scourer. Do NOT scrape or scour the ignition prong as this is made from porcelain and can break very easily. It is usually white in colour, with a little metal cap or stud on the end. sometimes , the knob wears and you cant push it down far enough to lock the magnet when the flame is on. Pull the knob off and try stuffing a little bit of paper down the hole in the knob which goes onto the gascock shaft.. This will allow you to push the shaft down further and thus ensure the magnet is locking onto the gascock. If you are unsure, try a knob from one of the other burners that you are not having trouble with and see if that works, if it does, then you know its the knob, Cheers, Steve

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There must be a blockage on the inner flame ring as the gas is not getting to the thermocouple .

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Hi look for adjustments to the lighter and also there should be a sensor tat sees the fire , this sesor allows the main gas to turn on, but only if it feels the heat , kind of like a thermocouple , if you think about about any type problem like this: what is it not doing ? then think what could cause this >/? if you go about any repair this way there is nothing you can't fix unless you need a part !

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1 Answer

Gas hob is permanently igniting


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Cannot ignite central gas ring on smeg 5-ring kitchen hob


I had a similar problem on a different gas range but your problem seems the same as mine was.
I examined the underside of the burner and saw a little 'flash' left from the casting process and I filed it off. This made the problem worse; it wouldn't light at all anymore.
I tried the opposite, blocking off the burner channel from the gas feed pipe to the spark gap; problem solved. It hasn't had a hiccough since.
I can only imagine that the flow of gas toward the spark gap was so strong, the gas was blowing itself out.
Not knowing exactly how the underside of your burner looks or how the gas is partially diverted to the spark gap but I drilled a small hole in the casting, inserted a length of copper wire (the gauge used in house wiring), then 'tuned' the flow by clipping part of the wire off and trying it. It might have taken all of 15 minutes to correct the annoying problem.   

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