Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer not working
Assuming the problem is associated with you changing the cord, it sounds like you have a wire crossed on the power cord. Double check how you have the cord installed first. If that is correct check your power to the dryer. Since you changed the type of cord, I assume you have had outlet replaced or have just moved to new house. If you have a fuse box instead of a breaker box, check your fuses. It takes two fuses for the dryer. If one of them blows, the motor will run but you wont get heat. The motor runs on 120 but it needs 240 for the element. I can't count how many people have bought a new dryer just to find out they only had a house fuse blown and nothing was wrong with their old dryer. If you have had wall outlet changed there could be a wire crossed in it.
Posted on Oct 05, 2007
SOURCE: change fr 3 prongs to 4
They wire in the same except the green wire will go to a ground screw which should be right in the same area with a green color to it. If no ground screw, hook the green together with the white (center) wire. Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
It may not be the heating element causing your problem. There are other components that can fail that will cause the same symptoms. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please let me know. Please inlcude your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) when asking questions. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
Always disconnect electricity before beginning this process.
All the 4 wire cords I have seen are color-coded. The white wire goes to the middle terminal, the green wire goes to any screw you can reach that goes into the metal case of the dyer. The red and black go to the outside terminals of the block and while it doesn't matter which color goes to which terminal I usually follow the color code of the interior dryer wiring that already exists. Good Luck.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
This problem is almost always a broken belt. Yes you can do it yourself.
Go to repairclinic. com and put in your model number for the exploded view of your dryer. Locate the belt part number and belt orientation.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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