IC-736 total failure whilst on air, fuse OK, nothing smelt burning etc, not over heated, no voltage surge, SWR was moderate but protected by APC circuit. Totally dead now.
This radio has given 15 years fault free service, surprised that it has failed. Have a service manual, but little time to work on it. Fuse changed, but unit is still dead. Suspect a Power Supply failure, but nothing smelt burning etc, maybe APC unit failed as SWR was moderate to high at the time?
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Re: IC-736 total failure whilst on air, fuse OK, nothing...
Hi Jack, (No Pun Intended)
As this is such a fine radio, I would take it to the radio doctor for a once over check-up, The technician will find the problem and give you an estimate of cost to repair the fault, Take care of you radio, it's a great unit that should give you many more years of service.
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ups units run a computer directly from mains power and from a battery when mains power is cut.
some run the computer through the battery at all times and so use the battery as a surge protection
points to check on your unit
is the by pass system being damaged in the surge protection section
is this requiring the batteries to provide power but not being charged at the same time
Is the power consumption exceeding the battery rating ( pc, printer, monitor , modem etc exceeding the out put of the ups
if you are familiar with Micro oven servicing follow these steps
a microwave oven is a dangerous task. The high-voltage potential combined
with the high-current capability of an operating microwave oven pose
a deadly threat to a careless worker 1.Shorted Magnetron tube. 2.Replace Magnetron tube 3.Check Built-in surge protection
on printed circuit board has opened. This circuit consists of a fine foil
pattern (or filter coil - depending on the model) that acts to fuse the
primary side of the low-voltage transformer. 4. Rebuild the surge protection
circuit. Replace the varistor 5. Magnetron filament connectors have loosened and,
due to resistive heat, the terminal connections have deteriorated
and burned off. 6. Repair defective terminals as follows:Either
(1) Cut away burned wire, clean the magnetron terminals, and replace
the slip-on connectors, or (2) Cut away burned wire and connector(s).
Clean terminals to prepare for soldering. Solder filament leads directly
to magnetron terminals. Be careful not to apply soldering heat any
longer than necessary 7. Check for Weakened fuse clips in the
fuse receptacle causing fuse to melt due to resistive heat. Usually indicated
by a bead of solder leaching out from either endcap and/or evidence of overheating (or burned spot) at the endcap, fuse
clip, or terminal connection
8. Replace amp fuse and receptacle.Generic fuses and
fuse holders are available at appliance and electronic part suppliers. 9. Contact service center .. all the best ..thank you
The surge protector has likely committed suicide... or died by homicide. In other words, it may have done its job, or been fried trying. Either the breaker/fuse inside melted by design due to a surge, or it died.
A surge protector is only designed to protect you from many small/everyday surges, or ONE BIG ONE. The cumulative wear of small surges will eventually kill them as well. They don't last forever, and some experts recommend replacing them every 3 years or so for safety/performance.
Some surge protectors have a reset switch or a replaceable fuse, but since you smelled something burning, I highly recommend tossing it in the garbage (if not still on fire, hee hee), and get a new surge protector for safety. Your house is worth the $25+. If you have had any other electrical issues in your home lately, get an electrician to do a quick safety inspection as well. Be safe!
PS: Not all surge protectors are created equal. Look for one that has "lighting protection" and costs at least $20-25 , or you likely don't have decent protection (the ones I buy are usually $30-$35, but I watch for sales and keep an extra on hand). Never overload a surge protector or wall outlet. Read the manual for the total watts,etc. supported. And don't expect to collect on the $50,000 equipment damage guarantee some surge protectors promise.
All crt tvs will fail after a certain age because the electrolytic capacitors near the horizontal and vertical output transistors /(ic s) dry up with age. At this point you start having lines across your screen in even increments. At this point the voltages are swaying and components start having too much current or voltage getting to them until they blow. Often this takes out the voltage rectifier and or diodes and resistors in the power supply area. If the high voltage area overheats it can take out the flyback or the high voltage capacitor or burn traces on the circuit board etc. An adjustment on the flyback is only done to tune in the picture so that that lines don't show. There may also be a main ic or EPROM (erasable programmable read only memory) that can fail. Then there are x-ray protection circuits, or the thermistor that is supposed to fail in the event of a surge etc.
the battery back-up will smooth out the voltage, You will definitely need a battery in or else it will beep nonstop and drive you batty! the APC should have surge protected outlets already built into it. And since you will be using it outside of a computer environment, im guessing on a worksite, there will be nothing extra you need to do besides plugging it in. I would suggest plugging it into a stable voltage for the first hour or so to allow it to charge the battery.
You haven't specifed nothing about the model number or brand name of your flat panel teleivison. i assumes that it to be a picture tube based one and posts this solution before you.
A thin horizontal line across the screen with sound output is OK, is the sympton of total failure of vertical sweep. This may be due to failure of vertical output IC or loose solder terminals of that IC. The vertical output IC will heat up while working, and repeated heating and cooling may make its solder terminals to get loose. Just open your TV, pull out the board that contains vertcial output section, turn it upside down, resolder all the solder terminals of that IC by applying a little more solder, without making any solder bridge in between terminals. Check the voltage to the vertical output IC also. If this resoldering method does not help you, replace the vertical IC itself with same type and number will solve your TVs problem. OK.
If you open the door of the microwave can you smell an odd odor? if yes the magnetron is probably fried "heats food" the other parts that need to be checked are the high voltage capacitor and diode. I recommend appliance repairman or tv technician to further check with an estimate.
may be ur tvs lamp side have some problem. may be the lamp over heated and burned. just open its lamp cover ann check it.
also check its power supply input point(near fuse) there is an MOV (used for voltage surge protection) is burned or not. if there is any voltage surge it will get shorted and the fuse will blow off, protect the power supply for any further damage. check the fuse also. if found open then check the MOV. insert fuse only after replacing the MOV.
First, most of the UPS sensitivity can be adjusted. Setting a higher sensitivity will make the UPS compensable much faster if the current goes to high to too low thus always providing a good power quality to the equipments. For example, on a BackUPS RS the low level can be configured from 94V to 104V and the high level from 126V to 136V. An entry-level UPS such as the APC BackUPS ES will switch to battery mode as soon as the power goes out of the sensitivity range. On the other hand, a high-end UPS for workstation like the APC BackUPS RS has a feature called Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) that compensate at some extent without requiring the battery; this makes the battery last longer before needing to be replaced.
Second, most of the UPS have "Battery Protected" and "Surge only" outlets. Make sure that the computers are connected to the "Battery Protected". The "Surge only" outlets will only protect from parasites or surges like a thunder storm. They should be used for less important stuff like a desk lamp or devices with high demand peek such as a laser printer.
Third, the use of a power bar connected to the "Battery Protected" side should not have any impact as long as it is not overloading the UPS. Personnaly, I have a power bar connected to both my UPS.