Ok never done this stuff befor have to do it on my own so how do I get the new one in ???

ok , you scanned it (old post)
you see EVAP codes, unsated.
gas cap loose?
reset button on scanner, drive with tight cap. (easy stuff)
no it still fails, new, cap? still fails.
ok the easy peasy stuff done.
this is the tank vents failing or the EVAP test devices bad.
in a shop we do the tank leak downtest, (cap adaptor)
and it fails, we find the lines (vent) cracked) and its fixed
or passes this, and we test the evap control valves and 1 fails.
all this is covered in the FSM every step, no guessing and no secrets.
alldata.com
or
suzuki pit stop plus.

yes, google for URLs.. both are top choices.

try opening it out and finding the battery and stuff,
once you can do this confidently buy http://cgi.ebay.ca/570mAh-Battery-BRAND-NEW-Sony-NWZ-E436F-/390169848203?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item5ad7ef698b#ht_500wt_922 and then replace done
i tell you to practice first because u may end up just snapping a wire or something breaking it permanently, and if u were gonna break it permanently then u might as well do it before buying stuff oh also be careful

Did you also replace the fuel filter If so it may be the fuel regulator thats inside the plum on top fof the intake manifold i see you did do the filter I would suppect the regulator before the injectors you have done most of the hard and expensive stuff already If one injector was giveing you aproblem ok but not all of them at once also make sure the pump is putting out before you start anything else sometimes its a wireing issue with the pump

if the battery was removed wrong it could have damaged the ecu. the ecu does not like the positive lead removing first. even without the ignition being on a little power still goes into the ecu. you might be able to repair the ecu some ecu's in the old type ecus had a fuse on the ecu board it could of just blown this.

It would be smart to do the water pump while you are in there, but are you sure that stuff has to be done? A 2000 model seems a little new to have to do that stuff to. All there is to check while your in there is the timing gear teeth. You could check your cam lobs by pulling the cam out but that would be pretty extensive work and usually isn't necessary. Another serpentine belt would be wise since you'll already have it off. When you put it back together, make sure you let the sealant dry pretty well before driving it or you'll end up redoing all of it.

Probably want to check abs sensors on the back side of the wheels. Did you have a abs light on before the brakes where done?

Hi Oscar

First: If you have pets, keep them away from the puddle. Antifreeze can kill them. Use sawdust, kitty litter, whatever to soak it up.

Did you see where it was leaking from?

If the shop you mentioned were the ones that replaced it, I'd give them a call, tell them what happened, that you want it TOWED back to their shop to have it done right. Any damage caused by the over heat will be their responsibility too.

Document everything, Dates, times , who talked to, Whether or not your new radiator looks new (or spray painted)

Something isn't right.
Mike

Hmm, do you have a voltmeter, check the voltage on the battery with it running, usually 13.5 to 15 volts
If that reads ok, you probably have a short, get a testlight, pull off the negative cable off the battery,clamp one end to the cable and the other to the battery. If it lights up, you have a short, start unplugging stuff until you find the short and the light goes out!

Before ordering a new control board, check the wiring harness to make sure there are no breaks in the wire from the water valve to the board.  If everything checks out, replace the board.  The board is not that hard to replace and all the wire connectors are not confusing.