Question about Samsung Lg Whirlpool Westinghouse Defrost Bi- Metal Termination P/n :6615jb2002a

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How do i test a bi- metal termination unit. p/n:6615jb2002a

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How to check Bimetal Thermostat (T1/11)

If the thermostat is normally closed then you should check for continuity with a meter using the ohms setting. The same can be done for a normally open thermostat except there shouldn't be any continuity (conductive path) within the thermostat.

Jun 14, 2014 | Freezers

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How to defrost upright freezer

My name s Peter. I am a retired field service technician.
1.) First, lets check your defrost timer. You will need a small flat head screw driver. Pull your freezer out to where you can get behind it. Do not unplug your freezer yet. There is a small white box almost 2" square. On this box is a small shaft with a slot in it. Turn this dial with your screw driver slowly until your unit shuts down (Compressor not running). What you have just done is force your unit into the defrost mode.
If the unit does not shut down you have a bad defrost timer. We are not done with the defrost timer yet.
Take a break, grab a cup of coffee, allow the unit 30 minutes to defrost.
Upon returning if the freezer has defrosted you have a bad defrost timer. Unplug the freezer and replace. Easy job.
2.) Ok, not the timer. Lets check the freezer drain. At times the freezer drain freezes up. When the unit goes into defrost the condensate can not go down the drain and you build up a wall of ice behind the bottom back wall.
Unplug the freezer. Pop the setting control knob off on the lower back panel. You may need a screw driver to wedge it off. Pull the seal strips out on the 2 sides. Unscrew all of the fasteners on the back panel cover. You can not remove the cover yet. You must disconnect the temperature control. There are different mountings. Perhaps 2 screws holding the control to the back cover or a connector where you need a small screw driver to wedge them apart.
Ok, you observe a wall of ice and have a frozen drain. Do not let the freezer defrost itself, you will have a flood. Using a hair dryer and a plastic spatula melt the ice and remove it in chunks. This is a long consuming task, take you time. Be careful not to touch any of the unit components. Let the hair dryer do the work on the evaporator coil etc. Clear the drain with hot water soak up as much as you can. We do not want this to happen again - lets make a heat sink. Taking a piece of 12-14 gauge wire about 3' long, strip about 2" off one end. You should wear gloves. The fins on the evaporator coil are razor sharp. Wrap the striped end of the wire around the defrost heater (Long black bar beneath the evaporator coil). Secure it tightly. Extend the other end of the wire to your drain hole. You want to cut the wire where you strip 2" of exposed bare wire into the drain hole. So, when your defrost heater is on any ice in the drain hole will be melted. Reassemble the back panel. Plug the unit in.
3.) Huh? None of these? Well then, you have to have either a bad defrost heater or bi-metal. Be careful of the evaporator coil is razor sharp. There are two connectors on each end of your defrost heater. These connectors pull apart, they are a little difficult at times. Please wear gloves. You need a multi-meter. Set the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). Touch the ends of the probes together, the meter should read 1.0. Insert one end of the probe into one end of the heater connector and the other probe into the other end. If the meter does not change the heater is bad. If you get a reading between 0-50 Ohms the heater is good.
4.) Not the heater!!!!! Your heater and Bi-metal work together. It is good practice when you replace one you should replace the other.
Your Bi-metal is a small canister looking item, silver color and clipped onto the tubing in the upper right hand corner. Disconnect and remove this item. Place the Bi-metal in a glass of water. Once again touch the 2 ends of the probe together, you should have a reading of 1.0. Using your meter put your probes in each side of the connector. If your meter reads '0' he Bi-Metal is good. When replacing the Bi-metal make sure it is in the original position. Make sure it is secure and not loose. You may have to bend the bottom clip to make sure it is tight.
Note: Everyone should have a multi-meter in there home. It has may uses and can save you a very expensive service call. So, next Christmas, Birthday Ect., buy your better have a multi-meter. They are not that expensive. That way you can borrow it.

Jan 03, 2014 | Galaxy Freezers

1 Answer

I have a turbo air upright freezer. having trouble understand ertain sensors and how this unit functions. on the schematic there is a f sensor and d sensor and bi metal switch. Customer called that this...

without a model number, I can only tell you the general function of most freezers. Theory is that the bi-metal is probably a defrost heater safety to prevent overheating. A sensor of some type will prevent the evaporator fan from coming on until the evaporator temp hits a preset temperature. Some freezers are setup to terminate on either time or temperature, whichever occurs first.
Hope this helps some. Need model number for further help.

Apr 13, 2017 | Turbo Air Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer gets frosted up 1 day after defrosting completley. New seal already installed model#116

If its frosting up 1 day after defrosting, first, you probably didnt have the doors open while you defrosted, and secondly, the seal was likely not the problem in the first place. You probably have a defrost problem, either with the defrost control, the bi-metal t stat or the heater have malfunctioned. This type of refrigerator repair can be checked best by testing continuity through the heater, and the t stat when cold. If both of those show no defects, change the defrost control.

Sep 27, 2010 | Frigidaire Freezers

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Have a Westinghouse 'Silhouette' Frost Free 415

The reason your "freezing up in the freezer" is your unit is not automatically defrosting. That part you describe is your defrost control, or at least A defrost control. You said while cleaning the back, safe to assume you meant the outside back of the cabinet? Look for a square plug, either black or white, with the same 3-1plug as the defrost control. But, I doubt that is your current defrost control, maybe the original, but the unit cannot run without the defrost control plugged in. Now, your current defrost control maybe defunct, or your defrost heater element, or bi metal thermostat, the latter two are located in the freezer, one at the top, the other at the bottom of the evaporator coil. Test the continuity through both of these parts, the bi metal t stat at top of evaporator needs to be tested while it is cold. Disconnect one end of the heater element to test its continuity. If both of these test ok, replace your defrost control.

Mar 29, 2010 | Freezers

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there is chance that the defost timer or sensor has gone bad. but you need to check and see if the evaporator motor is running while the unit is in the cooling mode.

Feb 06, 2010 | Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore 15.2 upright freezer coils freezing up

Check the bi-metal switch. when cold, it should have continuity also.
If both heater and bi-metal are good, change the defrost timer

I hope this helps.
Please leet me know if I can assist you further

May 31, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Whirlpool Freezer

Most likely you have a defrost problem. IF, you think the timer is ok then the most likely problem is the bi-metal. That is a little part usually on the top right side of the evap coil and has two wires on it. If you can find the defrost timer and advance it slowly till the refrigerator stops running, then being in the defrost postion you can see if the heater is coming on. If so you have a bad timer. If NOT, then either the heater or the bi-metal is bad. Usually it is the bi-metal

Aug 27, 2008 | Freezers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Freezer Model #EV150NXENOO

This one sounds like the defrost timer is not working and you are not getting a defrost cycle every 6-8 hours (or when needed). Another issue could be that air (moisture) is getting in from a leaky door seal, etc. and causing the freeze up. If you have a sealed system problem where the cooling coils are not uniformly frosted up then the defrost thermostat will not "know" there is an ice condition and therefore not go into defrost mode (same issue if the defrost t-stat is bad). After you have ALL the ice out of the unit it would be a good idea to take the interior rear cover off so you can view the coils. Start the freezer back up and watch over the next 1/2 hour or so to see that the entire coil is frosting up uniformly. If it isn't you may have a plugged system, a leak causing low refrigerant, etc. If over time the coils look uniformly frosted up you may have a defective defrost heating element itself (no heat, no defrost sort of thing). The defrost elements can be checked with a multimeter for continuity if you know how to do that sort of thing. It's hard to know a person's ability by these forums or if they can tackle certain test procedures.

Nov 12, 2006 | Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer...

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ca. 2010 GE fridge with Samsung ice maker. I have to hold the reset on the icemaker every few days to keep making ice or it quits. What's the fix? When it works, there's a loud popping every 3 seconds for about 2 minutes, then a few minutes later ice harvests into the bin. With my hand against the outside of the fridge next to the icemaker, I can literally feel each pop. I originally thought it was the ice release heater failing that caused cubes to pop loose hard, but I couldn't find anything wrong electronically when I took things apart and examined the board and connections in the icemaker. I may have missed something mechanically that's causing some part to flex and then suddenly give against the wall inside every 3 secs as the clock cycles through the beginning of a harvest? What might that be? But after reassembly it now has the added feature of harvesting a few times and then stopping altogether. We run flat out of ice if I forget to press and hold the reset button for 10 secs. every few days. Apparently the clock is cycling incompletely or something now. Could a cog be missing/broken/out of alignment in the clockworks, such that when it gets so far along it slips, but can be reset? How about the lift arm? Could it be out of position inside such that something it's connected to isn't properly repositioning when the arm drops back down? Or could all of this be related to a faulty control board elsewhere in the fridge?

Apr 19, 2017 | Samsung RS261MD 26 cu. ft. Side by Side...

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