Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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When i turn the knob to hot water on washing machine no water comes in

When washing cycle ends it keeps leaking water for a while then stops

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  • 198 Answers

The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

Posted on Dec 02, 2012

  • Heidi Newberry Dec 02, 2012

    The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
    To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: GE Top load washer.

Hello rschneeweis
Welcome,

Sounds like a seal or drain hose is leaking or the clamp on a hose has vibrated loose.

Water leaking out the bottom of the machine when washing machine begins agitation cycle. If the machine is turned off the water stops leaking even with the tub full of water.

Let me know if you found it and how you do.

Huuum
Please remember to leave a rating

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

Jimster
  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: Hot/Cold water knob will not work on washing machine

Does the water flow when you have it on warm or cold settings?  If on warm setting and water flow is cold, its probably the mixing valve.  This part isnt that expensive, and not that hard to replace.  Remove the two front console caps, remove the two console hold down screws then flip the console out and then over the top.  You will see two gold cabinet hold down clamps, pop them out, the lift the whole cabinet off the unit.   You will see the mixing valve right where the inlet hoses connect to the machine.  Let me know if you need further help.

Posted on Oct 17, 2007

Lumpy816
  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle

The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: Hot water not going into washing machine

hi there,
try the following, it may help:

Some washing machines allow hot water to enter only during certain cycles. Others intermittently
allow hot and cold to enter, to temper the temperature of the water. Consult your owner's manual
if you are unsure about whether the machine is acting abnormally.

If you're sure the machine isn't working the way it used to--or should--try these tests:

* Is the hot water turned on? If not, turn it on.


* Is the washer getting cold water but no hot water? If so, check to see if the control panel
settings are correct.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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1 Answer

I pull the knob to do a regular wash and nothing happens, no water no agitation. However, when I turn the knob to rinse it that works. This suddenly happened, was working before. Is it the knob?


Rinse on most washers is cold water your wash cycles can be cold hot and even warm. Problem You may have is a bad water feed valve Or Timer and possible bad wire harness at motor to timer
check water valve Turn washer to regular wash cycle pull knob on will washer fill ?
if water starts to fill then change washer temp if washer has this.
if water comes out on all settings water valve is fine.
Check the water both hot and cold that it is turned on;at faucet.
Your Kenmore Most likely has a bad water valve check for hot water side clog or not working.

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Bosch classix 1200 exprss washing machine will not move on from the wash cycle. it will keep on washing and never moves to the rinse cycle. pump and motor works ok.


WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

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1 Answer

Water leaking from the panel under the turn knob


Water comes in the back, then goes via to solenoid valves to the back of the powder tray, it then is distributed through holes above each compartment, take out the powder tray (push down the blue bit at the back of the softener compartment) and check for cracks or even blockages, (water goes from tray down the back and through a short rubber hose straight into the drum.

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Why when washing machine ends cycle it keeps leaking water


If water is leaking only during the times when it is supposed to be coming in , then the first places to check are at the hose connections and the hoses themselves. If it continues to leak after the water stops coming in , then you have to look at the drain connection and finally at the drum seal.

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When going to wash with my GW11 it stops during the was cycle and the cold and hot water light blink and the machine beeps


Hi just read your posting.Now, when the hot and cold lights flash at the same time it means that you are not getting enough or no hot or cold water.Remove the cold and hot inlet hoses from the machine end and put the ends into a bucket.Now turn the taps on to see if you have water coming out the hot and cold hose and if the water pressure is adequate.Try a cold fill on the wash cycle and see how it goes.please reply and let me know if there is water coming out of the hoses at a good pressure and also what water temp do you select on the wash cycle.Looking forward to your reply.

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The washing machine won't start if "cold water" only is selected. It will only work when "warm water" or "hot water" is selected (and even then there is only hot water filling the machine, the cold water...


Check the cold water solenoid. If a meter is not available you can swap the hot and cold wires and see if the symptom changes to hot water when cold is selected. If so the mixing valve needs replaced. If no then further testing of the wire harness and timer circuit are needed.
Eric

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1 Answer

Mold and smell from Maytag washer


The mold will be growing in the upper parts of the agitator basket above the water line. Spray these areas with a bleach/water mixture using a spray bottle. Turn off the hot water valve to your washer. Disconnect the hose connected to this valve. Connect a leak free garden hose to the valve. Connect a garden sprayer to the other end of the garden hose. Turn the hot water valve back on. Check for leaks. Use the garden sprayer to rinse and remove the mold. Be careful to keep all of the water in the agitator basket. Turn off the hot water valve. Reconnect the hose from the washer to this valve. Turn the hot water valve back on. Check for leaks. Run a wash cycle with an empty load.

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1 Answer

Hot water not going into washing machine


hi there,
try the following, it may help:

Some washing machines allow hot water to enter only during certain cycles. Others intermittently
allow hot and cold to enter, to temper the temperature of the water. Consult your owner's manual
if you are unsure about whether the machine is acting abnormally.

If you're sure the machine isn't working the way it used to--or should--try these tests:

* Is the hot water turned on? If not, turn it on.


* Is the washer getting cold water but no hot water? If so, check to see if the control panel
settings are correct.

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sound like the same washing machine from hell that we have. three or four times it has overflowed from want we have been told the hose that runs from the drum to on/off pressure switch cloggeds with soap. we have tried different soap,hot water,cold,water you name it we've tried it. so now evey time we use it we have to clean it with a coat hanger by taking the front off the machine.

P.S. take the hose off top and bottom to clean it, all it takes two/three very small soap bubbles to clogged it

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