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Can I replace the broiler element myself?

The broiler came on by itself and won't go out. I received an F-2 error message which seems to mean it can only be fixed by a service repairman.

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  • Jo-Ann Allan Dec 02, 2012

    We removed the element and the wire remains "hot" - so apparently it's the electronics that need to be replaced. Is it cost-effective to do it. I'm really not interested in buying a new stove at the moment - haven't had time to research what I want, etc.

  • Jo-Ann Allan Dec 06, 2012

    The problem was the control panel but it couldn't be just replaced as the part no longer is available, so we had to send the panel out to be rebuilt.

  • Ty Roshdy Dec 06, 2012

    Unfortunately that is becomming a more common problem these days. I have had to send boards to be repaired and they work fine. They are usually cheaper that a new board. This is a plus.

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It sounds like the control board has a stuck or welded relay. It is fairly expensive to replace the control board but not too difficult. Just make sure you touch the chassis (metal) of the stove before touching the new control board and of course have the power shut off or unplugged before attempting any repairs. You will need your make and model number along with your serial number in order to order the part.

Posted on Dec 03, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

heatman101
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SOURCE: my GE xl44 gas range broiler won't work,

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
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Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

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Posted on Jun 02, 2011

Daniel S
  • 4323 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Ultra

Hi

F3-E2 Error indicates a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

Posted on Aug 09, 2011

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Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
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