Edge of the saw blade moving left and right

Realign fence to blade, must be 90 degrees, using a level for straight edge bring other fence co planed with aligned fence. . You saw will only cut as accurate as you set it up., I spent over 2 hours on my 12 inch to ensure that it was vertical, exactly 90 degrees and exactly 45 degree both left and right. I used engineer squares.

Use a straight edge guide. Clamp it on the work so the jigsaw can run against it. Be patient and go very slowly.

I don't know why they even provide edge guides with jig saws, they don't work worth a flip. The problem is that, unlike a circular saw, the direction of cut is unlikely to be 90 degrees from the direction of the mounted edge guide. The blade mounting is not made to ensure that the blade is held exactly straight. When you follow a straight line with your cut you will see that the body of the saw will probably crab a bit sideways like a car that badly needs a wheel alignment. I suppose the edge guide can work on 1/4 inch plywood with an aggressive blade, but that will give you a very rough cut. Much better to draw the line and just follow it visually. If you need to do a lot of this, and you want a nice straight line, use a circular saw. Good luck.

Make sure the miter is lined up at 90 degrees to the blade. The fence has to be parallel to the blade and the blade tight. Cuts should be straight if the piece is held firmly and you move at the proper speed. Good luck!

Its either the speed of the blade ( mine came with its speed at half rate), or its the crappy blade they give you with the saw. If a cut is bowing your blade is having a tough time with material. This often happens with tough porcelain tiles and not using a porcelain blade.

this is usually caused by a dull blade or you need to carefully re-adjust the blade guides

I do a lot of resawing with mine and I have found that a 3/8" wide blade gives me nice straight cuts.

First if you need an owners manual go to Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of the page at the bottom type in your model number and get a copy. OK for setting the fence square, first unplug the tool and make sure that the blade isi good. Get an accurate square. Set the table at 0 or 90 degree for a straight cut depending on your scale. Make sure the blade is straight up and down on the bevel before starting. What you want to do is loosen up the 4 bolts on the back side of the fence enough so you can move the fence with some resistance. Set your square on the left side of the blade and pull or push the fence till it is square with the blade, snug up one of the bolts and then put the square on the right side and check for square, you might have to move it some if square snug up one bolt and recheck the left side again, if ok tighten both bolts and recheck the right side and repeat if OK. I sometimes recheck 3 or 4 times just to make sure. Also I should have mentioned about putting a straight edge across the length of the fence to make sure that it is not bent in some way thereby not allowing you to square the blade. Let me know if you need any more help

Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.